Thursday, November 5, 2015

Burda 8/2015 #106A: A Velveteen Blazer

106b-082015-b_largeI sewed up this really great pattern last week and had this really cool black velveteen material and a super awesome red satin lining... and this faux leather that ended up just sucking the awesomeness from my blazer.  But it's kinda my fault, honestly.  I could have scrapped the pleather after realizing it was a slippery, stretchy material that didn't behave or sit flat or have the right hand to it.  But I was bent on a garment with faux leather embellishments.  But how cool is this with the contrast of the bold red lining!?

I feel like this ended up really amateur looking and homemade in some parts... but guess what... I'ma going to wear it any ole way (maybe)!! Even though I worked hard on it... muslin, alterations (minimal ones, though), loads of hand sewing... it just came out,  Not Right.  I'm not going to point out what's not right.  I used Burda 8/2015 #106A.  It's a lovely pattern (minus the usual lame directions... so bad.. like usual... I skipped them mostly).  I love the two piece sleeve, the seam in the center back as well as at the back waist... all elements that made the fitting easy. 

I cut my usual 42 bust and graded to a 46 hip.  I also added 1" (2 cm) length to the sleeve and length of the bodice, a standard alteration for me.  I had to about a 1/2" (1 cm) total to the front seams under the bust for a better fit. Otherwise, that's it for fitting.  I excluded some details of the pattern because I got so frustrated with the faux leather I forced myself to use... including the sleeve detail and changing the pocket up a little.   

If you want more about this blazer, you can see my blog over on Fabric Mart here.  I've got like 4 things I need to blog about that I've made including a Jalie zip top and an Ottobre sweater... and some other stuff my tired mom-brain won't let me recall at this moment.  Coming up in my sewing queue are JEANS and a winter coat and more running gear... I've got me an 8K coming this month raising money for our zoo here in Baltimore... I think I need some zebra stripes or giraffe prints or something!?

Wednesday, October 28, 2015

Orange Lingerie Montgomery Briefs & A Marlborough Bra

I'm back in business with sewing up more undies and bras. I blogged more in depth over on Fabric Mart's blog if you want to read that here.

I used my TNT bra pattern, the Marlborough Bra.  You can see all of my adventures in sewing, altering and all that stuff here on my blog since it was released last year.

This was my first go with the Orange Lingerie Montgomery brief.  I didn't really talk about the fit on FM's blog.  I made a size large waist and graded to an XL for hip/backside.  I feel like I want to size up to a straight XL in the waist, it's a tad snug, but totally wearable.  I am a bit surprised at the decent back side coverage, I've often had trouble in the past with coverage in that area with other undies patterns-- always needing way more fabric back there for comfort.  I would classify the amount of coverage as the minimal amount for an everyday pair of undies... meaning I could take a bit more fabric there for everyday wear BUT it's not weird feeling at all.  (I'm trying super hard not to make this sound weird and attract creepers from google to my blog!!!!)   The no VPL (visual panty line) detail is pretty ingenious... it's really true, there is no VPL... BUT since the waist on these 2 pairs are a tad snug, they create a mildly noticeable line if I wear concerned about it under a cute skirt or dress.  As far as ease of sewing... very easy, especially having sewn lingerie for several years now.

My galoon lace I used on the front panels was a tad too narrow to completely cover it.  I lined it and allowed the lower edge of the lace to show-- it's a pretty scalloped edge so it looks totally intentional.  I used a zig zag stitch to secure it to the lining.

Hurray for pretty underthings!!!!!!!!!!!!  I am working on a smart looking lined black velveteen blazer right now, so I have to put sewing up more undies on hold for now.  Oh my goodness, who told me to use BLACK VELVETEEN!?!?  Every bit of lint is showing up on it as I go.  My pattern is from the August 2015 issue of Burda.  My contrast will be a faux leather!! Saucy!!!!!!  I made my muslin and I barely needed any alterations outside of standard lengthening and grading for a fuller hip.  That back waist seam is AWESOME for me... no swayback adjustment at all. What!?!?!!  It has a two piece sleeve and center back seam-- two of my favorite elements in a jacket when it comes to fitting.  That model lady looks so happy to be wearing her green and mauve velvet blazer.  


Monday, October 5, 2015

Jalie Cora Tights

I waited until cooler weather to finally order the new Jalie Cora tights pattern.  Running is NOT a priority for me in the summer because I melt and die just walking to the car in heat.  Now I'm back in the saddle this fall getting ready for a 8K with some major hills next month... then looking forward to a half marathon again next year, likely with one or two races between. *By "race" I mean that I sign up for a running event (i.e. ye olde half marathon, a 5K, 10K or whatever) and do MY best, not really"racing" with anyone else.  I think I've said it before, I am s.l.o.w. by most standards but I'm a hella lot faster then I used to be sitting on my couch about 70 lbs heavier then I am now.*

I sewed up a muslin to test the pattern to make sure I was doing it right before cutting up my good fabric.  I had to grade between sizes from waist to hip and needed to make sure I got all the puzzle pieces traced correctly to fit together.  I wanted a compression style pair of tights so I went down a size in my hip.  I cut a size X waist and a size Z hip (and leg, too).   I also added 1" (2.5 cm) to the lower leg length by slashing about mid calf.

I was pleasantly surprised by the height of the rise... it sits up high on my natural waist, it is not a low slung "casual wear" sort of legging.  Low rise=tugging and pulling and lack of comfort on runs.  I have a fuller thigh, have a fuller bum and my back side sits lower then the average gal and often will add width to these areas.  I did not here at all.  I think mostly because I am looking for compression tights and don't want to loosen things up.

The zebra print/butterfly wing print/whatever print is a (swimwear, likely) nylon spandex, non-wicking.  The black is a medium weight nylon spandex that is wicking.  The rosey purple solid is a New Balance wicking material.  All of it is 4 way stretch.  I've used that print fabric here and here, and the New Balance stuff (I've got a boatload of it in various colors) was used here, here, and here already-- that stuff is sooooo comfy but not the best for really cold weather running since it doesn't keep the heat in well.  The black material is a fairly recent acquisition, I got a lot of it since it was on sale.

The back pocket it nice and roomy for my keys. They stayed in nicely for a 5K I ran minutes before taking these pics. I don't carry a phone in my pocket but it will hold one for sure.  My favorite RTW leggings have a zipper on the back waist pocket... I would LOVE if it were zippered... hint, hint activewear pattern making gods... er, you know who you are :)  Zippers.  I like little zippers on my pockets.  And that little triangular crotch gusset... it's kinda great.  I feel like it provided more ease of movement and also (TMI here...) no c@mel toe!?   ***UPDATE:  Thank you everyone who has told me about Sewaholic's new leggings with the zipper!  I am a huge fan of her patterns, especially since they are drafted for a gal with a figure similar to mine!! But from what I've seen in the photos and the description of the pattern, they appear to not be ideal for my running.  But why, you say, they are so cute and sassy!  Well, they are drafted to sit well below the natural waist-- I cannot go out for an hour running session in the dead of winter with hip huggers-- they would not provide the coverage and security I expect from my technical running gear-- I can't be pulling my pants up ever few minutes!!  Also, I don't want to re-draft/alter the waist for a better fit after paying $16 for a pattern.  So if there is anyone out there who can disprove my theory on how the Sewaholics are inappropriate for high intensity activewear, please share.  Otherwise I'm steering away from her latest super cute loungewear line of clothes for running purposes.***  

I laid them out to show you another nice feature... the back waist sits HIGHER up.  This equals better butt coverage.  You can see how there is lots of room in the back for my fuller backside with simply grading up and NOT having  to add to the width of the thigh or back crotch.  Oh yeah, I also used the black fabric to line the waistband, wicking side touching my skin.  Plus I topstitched the seam of the crotch as well for added security of keeping it tightly sewn.  You can click to make that little front shot bigger to see the topstitching... I felt a little weird blowing it up huge on my blog.

Like I said, I did run in these.  They stayed put the whole time.  I was annoyed with that black shirt, a RTW one, because it's not quite the right fit on me like my handmade shirt are,  So there you go.  A thick-thighed girl reviewed the Jalie Cora tights... I had not seen anyone with similar dimensions talk about how they sewed these up.  I'm on a Jalie kick at the moment, I just got in the mail an envelope a half zip shirt pattern from them.  More sewing activewear=more motivations to go out and run!

Thursday, September 24, 2015

My Image 1561 Dress: Plus A Review of My Image Fall/Winter 2015-16

I made a plain, black dress.  Sound the sirens.  I make so many colorful, printed, fun things, I needed to calm down already.  Fall brings that out I think... a more settled down color pallette.  Now this pattern is from My Image, a previous favorite of mine.  It's the newest issue. I confess I am not as hot for them after the past couple issues.  I feel like they could explore more variety in their pattern designs, move away from the plain, round necklines, it feels a bit repetitive... and then jumping all around like 3 or 4 websites just to order magazines, a PDF or envelope patterns is wayy to much, it all really needs to be streamlined to one website with their actual magazine title in it.  

How cute is the dress in the magazine?

This dress took a LOT of fitting, thank goodness it was a princess seamed garment.  Off the bat I added 2" (5 cm) to the hem and it's still super short.  I cut a size 42 bodice and graded out to only a 44 hip, where I should have done a 46 if I were following the magazine's guidelines.  It was HUGE-O-MUN-GOUS!!  It was a tent.  I coulda seriously held a circus in there, flying trapeze artists and all.  So I ran each and every seam through the serger again and again until it fit.  I think I removed about 3 or more inches (7.5 cm or more) in the waist alone.  I removed maybe only 1.5" (3.8 cm) in the bust.  The skirt was monstrously huge.  I could have taken out 4 or more inches (10 cm or more) in the hip... likely more, I wasn't measuring, just serging, fitting, serging again.  And the skirt is still really full and swing-y.

When it's cooler and I really where this dress out in the world, I need to wear tights.  It's so short.  I can't lean forward too far otherwise, folks behind me would get a glimpse of something they don't want to see.  As far as the directions... the English ones are still difficult to sort out.  I abandoned them quickly, but not really an issue with a basic princess seamed dress.  I also got rid of the back zipper, it's useless with a knit like this.  I preferred to make a binding for my neckline instead of a facing-- I've found facings on a garments like this is a bit fussy.

I originally was outside taking my pics for this but I was being attacked by a thousand mosquitoes.  So up to my son's room I went... check out that sweet, sweet mess... dirty tissues on the floor and everything.  My word.  This room is not "company ready" at all, let alone "post a bunch of pictures on the internet" ready.  Whatever.  You have a kid or two lying around?  You're house is likely a hot mess in the middle of the week, too. 

The fabric here is a not-very-fancy-a-bit-on-the-cheap-side ponte.  I left this dress all made up in my basement and it picked up their weird odor that I need to get rid of.  In the end, I have a nice little basic I can wear tights and scarfs and jackets with.

Have you seen the latest issue of My Image.  I'm a little underwhelmed. I've often been distracted by the fabrics they use, they just aren't my cup of tea. On the cover, the color palette is blah, even with a floral printed dress.  It gives a solid clue as to what I found inside.  More dull colors.  

I might make the raglan sleeved dress on the lower left (in the above pic).  It's sporty and looks so wearable.  The model with the long curly hair is wearing a full on dress, not two separates.  I like the look and thought I'd want to make it... but looking at the pattern, the skirt is just two rectangles sewn together... no thanks.  The model makes it look like a super cute, shaped and fitted pencil skirt.  And the jacket... I could  do without it.  I like faux shearling, but this one I'm not hooked on.

There's that raglan dress again (above pic) in a different print.  The little jacket and sweatpant combo looks way too junior for me.  I only need so many big faux fur coats.

This page (above pic) is just meh.  Blah print on the dress, ill fitting skirt... but wait there are chickens behind them!  I want to see what that loose fitting sweater looks like untucked, all the photos in the magazine are just tucked in.

Here are the tech drawings.  What's great about My Image is they go up to size 54 on many of the patterns now.  Both the trousers are nice... I might be sewing one or both up if I can find time.

Monday, September 7, 2015

Ottobre 5/2015 #15: Hooded Sweatshirt

I've washed my hands of summer sewing maybe a month ago.  I am really loving the latest issue of Ottobre for women--5/2015 aka the Autumn/Winter issue.  There are just so many really functional patterns in here. I've nearly decided to make them all, but I'm easily distracted by all of the shiny new patterns that keep popping up.  I made pattern #15, the long sleeved hooded sweatshirt.  I was a tad bit lazy here on sizing.  I had it in my head that Ottobre is equivalent to Burda.  It is not.  After 2/3 of the way through sewing I realized it's a touch smaller in the hip.  I cut my regular Burda size of a 42 bust and 46 hip.  After reviewing the size charts, it looks like the larger the size for Ottobre, the SMALLER the hip is-- and the smaller sizes have FULLER hips.  Their block is not meant for the pear-shaped gal like me.  

For example: Size 34 hip-->Ottobre 35 3/8" Size 34 hip--> Burda is 34" Ottobre is 1 3/8" LARGER here.

Size 46 hip--> Ottobre 43 1/4" Size 46 hip--> Burda 43 1/2"Ottobre is 1/4" SMALLER here. 

Size 52 hip-->Ottobre 49 1/4"Size 52 hip--> Burda is 50 1/2"Ottobre is 3/4" SMALLER here.

Here is the Ottobre size chart in inches.  And here is the Burda size chart.  I went back to see what I did for sizing my Ottobre coat last winter, I actually used my measurement and the size chart for accurate sizing. But apparently that was too difficult this time around for me?  Back to the sweatshirt!

Even though the hip runs a tad small, this hoodie really is just fine I do think so.  I wore it some this Labor Day weekend while camping.  I was surprised by the overall length of it and the sleeve length.  I added 1" (2.5 cm) to my traced out paper pattern to the hems considering I'm a couple inches taller then then what they design for.  I had to remove the extra length!! Whaaa? And look how long the sleeves are still.  I love that!  The magazine refers to the sleeve style as "saddle sleeves" and I am confessing here that I've not ever heard of this sort of sleeve... it's basically a fancy version of a raglan sleeve.

It has slash pocket in front, totally useful!  My fabric is a really heavyweight double sided ponte (??) I picked up from Fabric Mart last year when I went to their Pennsylvania brick and mortar store... it was dirt cheap and in their front room that is chocked full of deals.  One side is dark brown while the other is a heathered brown and white.  I have more of this stuff in blue, it's really nice.  Maybe it's not a ponte, but it's a very heavy knit likely with poly/nylon and definitely some spandex.

Boy, I had trouble making any decorative stitch happen with my sewing machine on this stuff because it's so thick and tightly woven.  I ended up with a zig zag on the hem along with the saddle sleeve seams and top of the hood.  I used my serger for all my seams and wooly nylon for my thread.

I had THE MOST freakin trouble finding dual holed barrel toggle stopper thingies locally for the hood.  My local big box fabric store had only navy or black.  Then I had a lightbulb moment and remembered seeing them at Tuesday Morning.  I've picked up a fair amount of random sewing things from their little craft section including elastics and needles.  (If you don't know this store here in the U.S., it's like a smaller, simpler version of a Marshalls or TJMaxx... housewares and stuff).  49 cents for a three pack.  Done.  And the metal eyelets I had in my stash of vintage sewing stuff.

The pattern was really easy to sew up.  I vaguely followed the directions in the magazine... there's not much to figure out so I had no problems.  

I have this swanky new camera.  I just set it up on the picnic table at my campsite and kept pressing the remote to take pics.  Most of the photos ended up looking like this one above... me looking off in the distance at a bird or something like that and looking like an idiot waiting for the shutter to click.  I could not find the exact right spot to point the frickin thing to get a picture taken. I am not the sharpest tool in the shed sometimes.

And check out my juicy new tags for my sewing creations!  Simple and nice.  Yes, I blocked out with my hand my full name... I don't know how I feel about the internet seeing that yet. 

Thursday, August 13, 2015

Simplicity 1106: Two Drapey Tops

May I present my latest sewing projects: two drapey tops.  I used a new pattern, Simplicity 1106, View D.  Version 1, the black and white print, was actually meant to be a muslin... but it was turning out so well that I made it an official non-mulsin top to wear.  The material is a polyester crepe that has a really nice drape to it.  It sewed up so easily.  I used my walking foot since it's a little slippery and I was afraid it also may get a little distorted with a regular foot.

I spy with my little brown eye two mosquitoes biting me...

I cut a size medium bodice and graded out between a medium and large.  I sewed up the main bits and then just basted up the sides seams to check for fit.  I needed a tiny snidge of bit more wearing ease in the lowest part of the hip plus had to reduce the upper bodice down about 1" (2.5 cm) overall.  I think the hip is *just* shy of large now and the width across the bust is half way between a small and medium.  Oh, yeah... I added 1" (2.5 cm) to the length right at the hem as I cut my material.

I am SHOCKED at not having to do ANY adjustment to the back neckline!! It's a straight up medium there... I (almost) always need to dart out the back neckline for my shape.  And I'm super pleased that it drapes straight on down and skims over everything so nicely.  I've not made loose fitting tops like this much... they are so much easier to fit on my figure with my smaller top half and fuller bottom half.

Version 2... this fabric is JUUUUUUICY!!  Okay, it's a tad wrinkly from wearing it all day, I hate ironing, so whatevz.  The material is a washed silk charmeuse.  It drapes like a dream, it feels like a dream.  I don't really wear silk charmeuse in normal life, but I knew I could casual-ize this hunk of fabric.   It was so lovely that I had to take photos of it while it was line drying after hand washing it...

Drip drying... I'm so pretty...
I again used my walking foot to help with the sewing... the gentle pressure allowed for more even feeding through the machine.  For the black & white one I used the most simple finish for my seams, pinking shears.  For the brown & rust print, I used french seams for everything.

I need to re-make those jeans I am wearing with the silk top.  The are my pleated denim trousers from My Image magazine.  I sewed them a couple years ago.  The denim sucks and stretches out so fast.  You can really see how they bag on my legs after a day's wear.

Here some of the innards of the one top plus a close up of the material.  I really like "washed" look... there are variations that run throughout the print, almost like it's hand-painted.  I feel like this is my it's-okay-to-think-about-fall-and-fall-colors-and-fall sewing shirt.

And that's the innards of the back of the black & white version.  I actually excluded the facing on the back opening and just folded it over... I was nervous that a facing was going to add to much weight, pull down and pucker.

Dang!  I was being eaten alive by the mosquitos... I was trying to slap them between pics.   My ankles are covered in bites.  If you have super human vision, you can spot squeeters biting my in most if not all of these photos.