I think I got it! I think I got the fit spot on!! It's my latest Marlborough Bra from Orange Lingerie. I sewed my first version (the cream colored one) a couple weeks ago, thought it was too big in the cup, went on to sew Version 2 (photos immediately below) which ended up a disgustingly small fit in the cup ), went back to Version 1 (that cream one), then sent photos and asked Norma (designer of the pattern) via Twitter for advice on how to adjust the cup. Of course she was right, check out Version 3, the pink one above! But first, I must mourn the loss of a the gorgeous, too small bra. I took photos for posterity, then ripped it apart to keep the findings. I hand dyed all the fabric and lace that lovely shade of purple and lined it with silk organza. It was about 95% done. No way I was tossing out those elastics from a pricey Merckwaerdigh kit.
I used size 38B for this pink Marlborough Bra. I found that my original one version (the cream one) was much too large in the upper area of the cup. This is a very common occurrence in nearly every RTW bra I try on since I have a shallow bust as well as a wide root. This means most of the bust tissue is lower on the bust and each bewb takes up a pretty wide area. So I need a wide cup... but the top half of the cup has a hollow, open space creating wrinkling and a "hammock" effect. Funny fact, a 38B cup is equivalent to a cup in a 32DD.
|I could pinch out a decent amount on the upper cup (LEFT). After removing a |
sliver from the pattern pieces, the pink bra is the result (RIGHT).
First I lined up and taped the upper and lower cup where their seams meet on their right. I marked and drew in a new seam line and cutting line. You can see it's a wedge. I cut the extra pattern edge off. I then re-drew my seam lines as dotted line to match the rest of the pattern pieces. For my ease of reference, I wrote on all the seam lines to let me know which seam line it will be sewn to... i.e. "attach to lower cup", etc.
I laid my first bra against my latest bra for comparison's sake. All's the same except for the height of the top of the cup, plus there is a little space removed in the volume on top.
Crazy how the fabric pieces and lacey bits are all just a tiny mess of a pile that turns into something so pretty and quite supportive. This bra pattern is great for everyday support. I am not jogging in it or hiking in it. But I'm doing normal stuff in it.
If you look real close, I did use a different lace for the bridge... it has the same qualities, hand and stretch as the other so there would be no noticeable difference in fitting.
And to get a better idea of how it works under just a regular top, I took a shot while I wore it under a plain tank top here. Bewbies!!!!
Here's a fun little trick I've seen in a variety of places (I can't recall the original source, possibly Sigrid?) To get the lace to line up ever so perfectly, line up the seam line with a low dip in the lace's scalloped edge. Perfection!
ANYONE sew up this pattern yet besides me?! I want to hear what you've experienced and see what you think, too. Do share!