Thursday, September 8, 2016

Butterick 5926: Ponte Knit Blazers


Image result for butterick 5926
Butterick 5926
Well, hello there!  I have not been updating my blog, but posting pretty much everything on Instagram as I sew.  So here are two knit blazers, the red is a wearable muslin and the purple the final version.  I used Butterick 5926, View B.  I started by cutting a 16 bust and about an 18/20 hip, then went on to alter it.


Let's take a gander at the red one first.  I used a no-so-very-good-quality ponte that is heavy on polyester and is a lighter weight.  It was perfect for the muslin and ended up being a great wearable muslin as well!  Before cutting any fabric I lengthened the bodice by 3/4" (1.9 cm), did a swayback adjustment of about 3/4" (1.9 cm), and added 1" (2.5 cm) to the sleeve length (later removed for the purple one).  These are all standard alterations for me, so I just get them out of the way immediately.


After sewing it together, I had to lengthen the upper back darts, basically doubling the length.  Right before setting in the sleeves, I saw how wide the shoulders were and removed about 3/4" (1.9 cm) of them.  The fabric here is fairly drapey and creates a very casual, slightly wrinkly blazer.  I feel like it's a really great alternative to a sweatshirt for everyday or at my super casual office.  My buttons are from my stash of vintage goodies.  The buttonholes are little wonky, I think because of the quality of the fabric. I used my serger for most of my seams and hemmed everything with my ultra awesome coverstich machine! I am so in love with my Brother 2340CV coverstitch since I got it for my birthday this summer, I found it VERY easy to figure out how to use after having had the Brother 1034D serger for about 5 years now.


I used a lovely purple viscose knit ponte for my official version.  It's a heavier, really nice quality fabric.  It works perfectly for this pattern.  It has a firmer and stiffer hand then the red stuff I used for the muslin, the collar lays so much better, and has a more crisp look overall.  I ironed in a small square of interfacing on both layers of the button holes, it helped provide a much better finish.  


What's weird about the pattern is they don't include understitching in the process, this was even noted by other folks who sewed the pattern.  I understitched the collar in back plus along the front collar pieces and lapel.  With the second version, I got rid of that 1" extra I lengthened the sleeves.  There is an elbow dart, it fell too far past my elbow on the muslin.  On V.2, I was able to get a nice collar in back and on the lapel... maybe not a couture, perfectly tailored one I'd want from a woven blazer, but fantastic for a casual knit one!!  The buttons for this one are from the local big box fabric store.


I read nearly every single review of this pattern on Pattern Review before sewing it up.  Lots of folks had trouble with the directions for the collar, and I can see how things can get jumbled up.  I was expecting a bumpy ride for this part, but had zero problems surprisingly.  Overall, I found the directions to work really well for me. And, yes I excluded the pockets on both garments.  The red ponte would have turned out a hot mess with the top stitching.  I had the purple pockets sewn, pressed and ready to attach, pinned them on and realized I preferred the no-pocket look better.

This was an a easy pattern to sew up.  The details like a center back seam, upper back darts, elbow darts and a notched collar give the pattern a great look.  There is some hand-sewing with the back collar and insider shoulders.  Compared to a tailored and lined woven blazer, this was a breeze to sew.  I'll wear both on a regular basis when it's not a zillion degrees.

I tried to take pictures outside in the shade of my porch in the 100F (37C) temps.  It is so freakishly hot here I couldn't manage more then one sweaty picture with a rumpled up blazer.

Oh lawwddy, it's hot in the Mid-Atlantic

14 comments:

  1. Yikes, 37C! I am not looking forward to those kinds of temperatures this summer. Both of your blazers turned out beautifully. The purple is an especially nice colour on you.

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  2. Congrats on your coverstitch machine! I've missed your blog posts....thanks for this one.

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  3. YAY for the coverstitch! I'm totally going to get mine soon.

    Your jackets look so great and you can just tell that purple fabric is nice. It looks really fantastic. I love the fit you achieved too.

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  4. These look really great! That purple is gorgeous. I have never worn blazers, as they seem uncomfortable, but ponte seems like the perfect solution.

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  5. Super blazer, it fits so well and love the bright colour of both. I have an old ponte rtw blazer that's getting very tatty and now seeing this makes me want to replace it. Perfect for autumn which is just round the corner for me.

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  6. Great blazers. The purple one really suits you well.

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  7. I am so impressed that you have sewn both of these....and gone outside to take a pic in the remarkably hot Baltimore weather. Cooler weather will arrive and these will be so handy to have in your wardrobe. Lovely job.

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  8. It's so damn hot. SO HOT. But, maybe it's finally broken. I love love love that purple on you. It's an incredible color.

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  9. Looks great, I might have to look into this pattern!

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  10. Looks great, I might have to look into this pattern!

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  11. I have the same coverstitch and I love it as well! I love knit blazers too. The color of both of these is great!

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  12. I love both of these, I have a rtw navy ponte blazer and keep wondering what i will do when it wears out, now i know, get this butterick pattern! Thanks for the inspiration, and I keep dreaming about that coverstitch somewhere in my future!

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