Monday, September 7, 2015

Ottobre 5/2015 #15: Hooded Sweatshirt


I've washed my hands of summer sewing maybe a month ago.  I am really loving the latest issue of Ottobre for women--5/2015 aka the Autumn/Winter issue.  There are just so many really functional patterns in here. I've nearly decided to make them all, but I'm easily distracted by all of the shiny new patterns that keep popping up.  I made pattern #15, the long sleeved hooded sweatshirt.  I was a tad bit lazy here on sizing.  I had it in my head that Ottobre is equivalent to Burda.  It is not.  After 2/3 of the way through sewing I realized it's a touch smaller in the hip.  I cut my regular Burda size of a 42 bust and 46 hip.  After reviewing the size charts, it looks like the larger the size for Ottobre, the SMALLER the hip is-- and the smaller sizes have FULLER hips.  Their block is not meant for the pear-shaped gal like me.  


For example: Size 34 hip-->Ottobre 35 3/8" Size 34 hip--> Burda is 34" Ottobre is 1 3/8" LARGER here.


Size 46 hip--> Ottobre 43 1/4" Size 46 hip--> Burda 43 1/2"Ottobre is 1/4" SMALLER here. 


Size 52 hip-->Ottobre 49 1/4"Size 52 hip--> Burda is 50 1/2"Ottobre is 3/4" SMALLER here.


Here is the Ottobre size chart in inches.  And here is the Burda size chart.  I went back to see what I did for sizing my Ottobre coat last winter, I actually used my measurement and the size chart for accurate sizing. But apparently that was too difficult this time around for me?  Back to the sweatshirt!


Even though the hip runs a tad small, this hoodie really is just fine I do think so.  I wore it some this Labor Day weekend while camping.  I was surprised by the overall length of it and the sleeve length.  I added 1" (2.5 cm) to my traced out paper pattern to the hems considering I'm a couple inches taller then then what they design for.  I had to remove the extra length!! Whaaa? And look how long the sleeves are still.  I love that!  The magazine refers to the sleeve style as "saddle sleeves" and I am confessing here that I've not ever heard of this sort of sleeve... it's basically a fancy version of a raglan sleeve.


It has slash pocket in front, totally useful!  My fabric is a really heavyweight double sided ponte (??) I picked up from Fabric Mart last year when I went to their Pennsylvania brick and mortar store... it was dirt cheap and in their front room that is chocked full of deals.  One side is dark brown while the other is a heathered brown and white.  I have more of this stuff in blue, it's really nice.  Maybe it's not a ponte, but it's a very heavy knit likely with poly/nylon and definitely some spandex.



Boy, I had trouble making any decorative stitch happen with my sewing machine on this stuff because it's so thick and tightly woven.  I ended up with a zig zag on the hem along with the saddle sleeve seams and top of the hood.  I used my serger for all my seams and wooly nylon for my thread.


I had THE MOST freakin trouble finding dual holed barrel toggle stopper thingies locally for the hood.  My local big box fabric store had only navy or black.  Then I had a lightbulb moment and remembered seeing them at Tuesday Morning.  I've picked up a fair amount of random sewing things from their little craft section including elastics and needles.  (If you don't know this store here in the U.S., it's like a smaller, simpler version of a Marshalls or TJMaxx... housewares and stuff).  49 cents for a three pack.  Done.  And the metal eyelets I had in my stash of vintage sewing stuff.


The pattern was really easy to sew up.  I vaguely followed the directions in the magazine... there's not much to figure out so I had no problems.  


I have this swanky new camera.  I just set it up on the picnic table at my campsite and kept pressing the remote to take pics.  Most of the photos ended up looking like this one above... me looking off in the distance at a bird or something like that and looking like an idiot waiting for the shutter to click.  I could not find the exact right spot to point the frickin thing to get a picture taken. I am not the sharpest tool in the shed sometimes.


And check out my juicy new tags for my sewing creations!  Simple and nice.  Yes, I blocked out with my hand my full name... I don't know how I feel about the internet seeing that yet. 

24 comments:

  1. This is a great hoodie! I live in mine when it gets cold. I sadly did not order this issue and I'm kicking myself for it now. A sweatshirt out of ponte... you have opened up some possibilities for me now! :D

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    1. Thanks, Kristin! I'm considering adding a zipper for my next one.

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  2. I have to admit I love this issue of Ottobre also, of course it is out of season for us now but still great basics. I love the fancy raglan sleeve and I've been looking for that to copy some Kathmandu tops for my niece. I think your sweatshirt is great and doesn't look too small in the hip but thanks for the comparisons between Burda.

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    1. Thanks!! I've worn it in regular life (non-camping!) yesterday morning because it was a tad chilly (finally!). It didn't feel too small, I think I was originally expecting it to be a looser fit, I don't know why.

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  3. Such a great hoodie! (and so nice to have another post from you!) Okay, you have inspired me to go out and order a copy of this issue. I haven't yet checked out an Ottobre or Burda magazine, but all the cool seeing bloggers are always mentioning them, so it seems a good next step in my garment sewing adventure.

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    1. Thank you :) I really like having Burda and Ottobre subscriptions... there is such value in them... the cost per pattern is under a dollar each, way cheaper then buying any Big Four pattern on sale at the big box stores here in the US.

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    1. Thanks!! I think when you add in bits like toggles or eyelets, it looks so RTW.

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  5. I like those fancy saddle sleeves!

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  6. I always wondered what kind of stitch to use on saddle/raglan sleeves without a coverstitch machine. Hoodie looks great and I so envy you getting to go camping already. Its way too hot here.

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    1. Thanks! It's been way to hot here, too. I was a bit sweaty taking these pics. I wore it back and for between the shower house when the sun was coming up :)

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  7. Looks awesome and super practical, Kathy! Hope the camping trip was fun!

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    1. Thanks, Megan. Yep, we had some fun, then my son came down with a bug and proceeded to barf and pee in the tent in the middle of the night. Luckily this was the night before we were leaving anyhow :)

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  8. I let my subscription lapse but I think I will order this issue. Great looking sweatshirt.

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    1. Thank you! I really like this issue... I've misplaced my copy this week so I can't sew any more until it's found!

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  9. Love your sweatshirt! I love this Ottobre magazine too. I don't own it bu tI might have to get it!

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  10. I think I will be making a few things from this issue too, but probably not for awhile as we are coming out of the cold part of the year. I like the zigzag - nothing wrong with that. I hoped you enjoyed your camping week-end.

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    1. Thanks!! I really like the look of zig zag top stitching. There's actually a more expensive activewear company that uses this sort of top stittch-- I've sort of been borrowing their idea :)

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  11. Looks great, Kathy! Love that fabric. Thanks for the tip about Tuesday Morning. We have one here, but I haven't checked it out for a while. But those toggle stoppers are awesome!

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    1. Thanks!! Yeah, don't have high expectations at Tues Morning, but if you happen to be in one, it's worth a look.

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  12. wow, that is fantastic! looks like a great pattern, and perfect fabric. I'm jealous, it's still too hot here to even think about something cozy and snuggly like that.

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  13. Nice Hoodie.. it does look like a lot of nice patterns in that issue.

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