Thursday, July 2, 2015

Vogue 9472, Circa 1996: Pique Floral A-Line Sheath


Over the weekend I was up on Long Island for a very dear friend's wedding.  I *rarely* have an occasion to do special occasion sewing for myself, so I was super excited!!  The wedding was on a Sunday at noon near the waterfront-- so I felt like I needed something not too fancy schmnacy, something a little fun but not super wild and detailed.  I originally had very different plans with a different pattern and different fabric, but once that fabric arrived after ordering, it was on the verge of being too curtain-like (not to say I won't use it for another dress, I like it still!)  I whipped out this 2 yard bit of floral cotton pique I had in my stash. I had to dig for a pattern with simple lines that wouldn't compete with the print AND take under 2 yards of material. In walks this "vintage" Vogue pattern I dug up in a bag of patterns another friend gave me.  With a fuller bottom half, I feel a-line sheaths are more flattering for me.  And it's not quite vintage at 19 years old, right?!


I made up a muslin with a 16 bust, 14 neckline/shoulder and 20 hip, adding 1" (2.5 cm) to the length of the bodice-- a normal alteration for me at 5'8" (1.73 m).  I reduced the size later.  Thank goodness I muslined this thing, it was a hot mess that needed work to fit my figure.  I forgot to take pics of the awful initial muslin prior to my alterations.  But the muslin was kinda cute with the yellow polka dot cotton/poly quilting fabric I used for it!
I circled my main alterations, but those were made prior to taking these muslin pics, I forgot to take the ugly pics!

My main alterations are circled in red.  The muslin was initially huge on me.  The most obvious deviation from the pattern is the scooped out neckline.  I did a swayback adjustment on the back waist removing about 1.5" (3.8 cm), added the length tho the bodice like I already mentioned plus took in the side seams reducing the dress down by almost one size.  And the HUGE alteration that made all the difference in the world-- removing a boatload of material in the upper back shoulder area.  There was so much extra fabric up there it felt like I was supposed to store a few hams in there or something.  I also moved the zipper from the back center seam to the side seam... seriously, I could not reach a back zipper.  But I kept that back center seam, those things are perfect for people like me who need to always make back adjustments.


I am so freakin please with the back's fit.  It actually lays perfectly unwrinkled and just right, but I am not a professional photographer slash model, so you see slight wrinkles.  I am slightly annoyed with how the print isn't exactly lined up on back... I had two yards, I did a splendid job with what I had!


I lined the bodice with this odd bit of red bemberg rayon I had.  I intended to line the skirt, but I didn't have enough and nothing else in the stash was similar.  Coincidentally the pattern didn't even line the skirt.  I added a facing by altering the pattern on the upper part of lining, I was afraid the red would peak out.


I added these cute little bands on the front shoulder for a nice detail.  I pinked all of my seams, I didn't want to add bulk with the Hong Kong finish I first planned... or let alone a bulky serged seam.  Plus I was was running out of time, pinking takes what, 2 minutes and is an ideal finish for many garments.


I sewed in a good ole, regular zipper using my zipper foot on the main fabric there in the side seam.  There was a decent amount of hand sewing on this dress between the bodice lining, the inside of the zipper and the invisible hem.  I love me a successful invisible hem.  It's so easy and I feel like a classy lady with them.

Ye Olde Invisible Hem

Overall, a classic design.  I'd use this pattern again, it's such a blank palette.  Plus those pockets are a nice touch.  I was careful of the print placement there, I didn't want to draw loads of attention to that area being I have a wider lower half.




I tried to take photos after the wedding in my dress since I had my hair and makeup done.. but I was a wrinkled mess, my hair looked flat as usual and the makeup wasn't perfect anymore.  The ceremony was outside... in the rain.  I ran an iron over the dress today to get rid of most of those wrinkles.  I hate ironing. It's a rare day I whip out an iron to use on a normal day if I'm not using it to sew.  I bet most of us seamstress types don't iron unless is in the name of the sewing process!

In my fancy hotel room after the wedding, rained on and wrinkly!

I actually got a bunch of compliments before the wedding while we were waiting for the bride to come down the aisle.  She is such an amazing, thoughtful and kind person that she told everyone afterwards that I made the dress, then I got so many more compliments!  I had such a great time driving up to Long Island for the weekend.  What's funny, driving home I took the wrong turn in after getting out of the Manhattan/Queens tunnel, got lost (I was fine, I had my GPS) and found myself in the middle of the Garment District.  I may have screamed a little when I realized where I was and that I could not pull over and run screaming with joy through the streets and buying  a carload of fabric and sewing related paraphernalia.  Next time.  

23 comments:

  1. I love how you used this fabric! It looks great on you and yes, that back fit is perfection!

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    1. Thanks Nakisha :) My original intentions for this fabric was a jacket sort of thing like you made sometime back. It was so nice to sew with, I think I may have to search for more pique to work with.

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  2. Egads! That detour to the Garment District sounds like one of those weird dreams we seamstresses have on occasion. I love NYC but would never ever willingly take a car there!

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    1. YES! It was very dream-like! You hit the nail on the head!! I actually did not expect to go through Manhattan at all til the GPS made me do that... but I was like, why not?! It was my first time ever driving and being alone in a car in Manhattan. It was shockingly no problem... the drivers were better behaved and it was easier to deal with then drivers here in Baltimore, seriously.

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  3. Fantastic dress. What a nice fit. You should definitely reuse that pattern and who could tell it is a few years old. Looks like so many current releases

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    1. Thank you! It really is one of those 'recycled' patterns that Vogue and the other pattern companies re-publish with new pics on front. I just happen to have it in my stash so I used it instead of heading to Joanns for a "new" version of a sheath dress.

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  4. Wow Kathy! Your dress turned out so great! I think its funny thinking of a pattern being "vintage" when it's from 1996! Mostly because I was in junior high at the time, ha! I'm glad to hear you received many compliments at the wedding. The bride sounds like a doll, pointing out to guests that you made your dress (after all, "its the bride's day"!:)

    A friend of mine told me that while she was in NY, she and her husband happened to stumble across a street that was "all fabric stores". I assume its the same one you're referring to here (I've never been to NY). Not that I *need* anymore fabric of course, but I would probably hyperventilate in a place like that!:)

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    1. I think vintage would mean 20 years old, right? SO it's technically not vintage yet! I was just going into high school that year. And yes, the Garment District is where you can find loads of fabric shops... it was like a dream where I was smack dab in Manhattan and right in the middle of it all and I could not pull over and go in any of the stores!!!!!!! It was kind of a funny moment :) But it reminded me that I live only a 3 hour drive from there and I can take the bus there and not worry about parking one day.

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  5. Lovely dress and you perfected the fit. I like the fabric; I think pique is nice to sew.

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    1. Thank you! Yes, pique sews up so well. I'd never actually sewn with it before and it was so easy to handle.

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  6. This pattern is so great on you! You look fab.

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    1. Thank you so much!!! I felt so nice that day. Loud floral isn't everyone's cup of tea, but it made me happy :)

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  7. Great job, I adore that fabric! It's so nice to be at an event and feel great in your handmade dress!

    YAY!

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  8. I love the print of this dress and all the little details like the bands on the front straps- really nice! It's amazing how much difference it makes when you take the time to fit a garment properly- it completely transforms it! Beautiful!

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  9. Lovely dress and great alterations.

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