Monday, February 9, 2015
Ottobre 5/2009 #18 Winter Coat: Completed!
So I finally finished my winter coat last week! I've worn it a couple times and it feels really nice on. You can see my progress post on this coat right here-- it gives more detail of what sort of tailoring techniques I used along with my muslining process, sizing, etc. that I don't include in this here blog entry. A quick review: This is my very first Ottobre pattern...and I'm sold on them. I do confess, I barely used the directions, but I did review them to get an idea of how well Ottobre writes them. The instructions are okay but don't include much tailoring info and what not. It seems they expect you go it on your own for all those goodies... which is no big deal when there are some excellent coat tailoring books in the world (I use Tailoring: The Classic Guide to Sewing the Perfect Jacket). One thing I really liked about this pattern-- they actually have a pattern piece for the sleeve heads.
I doubled up on my sleeve heads here using both hair canvas cut on the bias and some polyester fleece. My purple fashion fabric is quite hefty and I felt like it needed extra support. I ended up using bias cut strips of sew-in hair canvas to stabilize my hems(rather then wigan). You can see in my innards photos I COMPLETELY interfaced my entire coat with iron-on weft insertion interfacing. That took a lifetime to do but it adds a really nice quality to the drape of the coat. My purple with white fashion fabric is a wool blend from Marc Jacobs. I picked it up from a particular store in Sinking Springs, PA in 2013 while on my annual road trip there.
I made bound button holes. They look so tidy and neat. You can see I used my sew-in hair canvas on the front edges of my coat, too. I kinda had fun cutting holes in it and popping the button hole bits through.
I am so freaking pleased with how the back of this coat lays. If you look back at my muslin you'll see a weird gaping in the back center seam. It's all gone. There is no back kick pleat, which is why the buttons end at a fairly high spot in front. I am not restricted in walking in any way. Actually I was on a min-hike in the woods with my son in these pictures.
Here are some more pics on the coat's insides. I used the upper back pattern piece to make the backstay. I used a lightweight cotton flannel. I also interlined the front and back bodice with a really ugly cotton flannel. My purple wool is quite thick and dense so I opted to have the interlining hang freely inside. I only sewed it to the shoulder seams and arm openings onto the main fabric. Those seams ended up being sooo thick my sewing machine almost wouldn't sew it together.
The sleeves lay nicely. The shoulders and sleeve heads are about right, I do say. I worked my buns off to get all of those little white dotty things to line up from one piece to the next... and they line up perfectly from bodice to sleeve... love that juicy detail! And in that picture above, I'm very serious about loving it apparently.
And check out my lining. I went back and forth on what to use. I intended to Sunback/Kasha flannel backed satin but couldn't get my hands on a color that worked with the purple stuff here. I didn't want pure white, I'd somehow pour a bottle of wine or mustard or a stray cat would pee on it and stain it forever. Long story short I ended up using this gold polyester satin I inherited from a friend here (thanks, Heather!!) I really like the color contrast.
Now, let's look at the back again. I'm just so happy with it. I ALWAYS have weird swayback issues or some bunching or something due to my fuller derriere. None here after fixing the muslin. And those buttons are so super cute. They came from Stadham here in town. They have a wall-o-buttons that make me happy.
It started raining when we were about done with our walk. Wet wool. Ugh. Oh, and I totally forgot. I didn't sew the pockets on. I sewed them up and attached one, but I hated it with a passion. For some reason they looked ugly, sloppy and just weren't right. I ripped it off. And then proceeded to forget to add pockets otherwise. This coat has no pockets. I think this is the only regret I have outside not getting Kasha lining. So be it! I love my purple coat. It loves me. Off into the sunset we go. And guess what what I am sewing now. Another jacket. But it's very different, I am using technical fabrics and making it to get sweaty and to run in.