For the undies I am in the XL size range. I made a straight size XL but added on some extra butt coverage. I had to do this for her Rosy LadyShorts, plus I could tell just by looking at the pattern that I'd need to add some material to cover my full rear end. You can see in the photo on the right where I added on some extra fabric but maintained the XL sizing. The red line is the original pattern line. I found that the rise of these undies are a little short for me and will add maybe an inch (2.5 cm) next go round just for personal preference. The waist is a tad large so I will have to reduce the it down by half a size as well.
My dark blue fabric is a 4-way stretch nylon spandex. I've used it for a pair or running leggings last year. The white lace is a firm nylon spandex stretch lace that is a nice stand in for a medium powernet... I've it used numerous times and even dyed for a bunch of bras found here, here, here and here.. and maybe other places, too? I just traced out the edge of the pattern along the edge of the lace then attached it with a medium zig zag stitch along the lower lace edge.
I only used my regular sewing machine for all the seams, the serger would create unwanted bulk. I opened the seams on the undies and top-stitched them to make a nice smooth look on the front. I am not a huge fan of having the exposed seam in the crotch as the pattern directions suggest to do. I enclosed my seams, and it's way easy. I used the 'burrito method'. You can find detailed directions on this method with the Fehr Trade Free Lacey Thong Pattern. That purple elastic is the same elastic on these undies, just dyed in a red RIT dye.
And now for that too big but very cute bra. I measure 36" (91.5 cm) at my underbust, this dropped me in the size 40 band according to the directions. I was apprehensive, but I went for it. I am often a 36 or 38 in RTW depending on the bra. The Watson pattern guidelines: underbusts between 36-37", use a 40 band. For comparison, I make a size 38B for the Orange Lingerie Marlborough Bra with an aleration for a shallow bust, a 38A for the Pin Up Girls Classic Full Band Bra and about a 38A for the Kwik Sew 3300 bra pattern. Yes, the fabric has some good stretch but this is waaaaaaaaaaay to huge. Check out the picture below, the cups are massive and I pulled out the band *very* lightly and got inches extra, this is on the tightest set of hooks. And those cups are gigantor.
This bra is clearly designed for smaller busted women or for women who need minimal support. I wasn't expecting loads and loads of support with an non-wired bra, but at least a closer fit in the band. I may be an A/B cup but I need more support then most A/B gals. I need my band to be tighter-- like the general rule of thumb: if you need more support, use a tighter band... if you need less support, go up a few inches in the band for a looser fit.
What will I do for my second version of the long line Watson bralette?
-Go down a band size and TWO full cup sizes-- from this 40B to a 38A (a 40B cup is equivalent to a 38C cup)
-Use a firmer cup material OR line with a low stretch fabric
-Use powernet or a firm elastic (like the white stuff I have in front cradle) for the band
-Possibly make a shallow bust adjustment
Also, one thing I noted in the materials list that threw off the sewing of the elastics on my bra-- the need for better clarification on which size plush elastic to use for the underarm and neckline. In the materials list is states to use 1/4" OR 3/8" plush elastic. I used 3/8" but only to find out after sewing it on that it should have been 1/4". It would have been helpful to state that the 3/8" was exclusively for the undies in the steps of the directions during that step. I see that in the Seam Allowance section prior to step one now, it mentions that the SAs on the neckline/underarm are 1/4"... so be careful with that one! I shoulda done a little better sleuthing.
Overall, the directions are pretty well written but omit a few items that would be of use (i.e. which elastics to use where, there are no metric measurements and inches are used exclusively, etc.) The illustrations are fantastic. I followed all of her suggestions for zig zag stitch sizes just for the sake of using and following a new pattern (she does a nice job of telling you what stitch where and when and the size) but I have personal preferences for certain stitches and sizes of them and will likely use my own ideas next go round. I was a stickler for switching out my threads CONSTANTLY making sure to use white where white materials were used and dark navy where the blue material is... didn't want the contrast stitching. I sewed this all up quickly, overall not much of a challenge as far as what sewing skills are needed. I would like to get the right size/fit because I want a comfy, easy to wear non-wired bra. I always wear underwires (I LOVE my Marlborough. LOVE!) I think this is a nice pattern with lots of potential for loads of styles/prints/colors. Plus, if your a bikini wearing type for you swimsuits... this could be a great pattern to use if you added some of those soft padded cups for nippulur modesty. Alright then, onward!