Tuesday, September 30, 2014

Orange Lingerie Marlborough Bra: A Red & Black Lacey One


I'm on a roll here with my Orange Lingerie Marlborough Bras!  I need to replace some old ones and I also am just obsessed with bra making at the moment.  I made no alterations as compared to my last very success version of this pattern.   This red and black bra is a size 38B with my upper cup alterations for my shallow bust. You can see Version One here, Two & Three here along with the alterations I made and the sizing I worked with.


I used a non-stretch black lace for the cups and bridge.  I used a temporary fabric spray adhesive (it can be purchased at most big box stores) to secure the lace to the red nylon/spandex material-- this made is so easy to sew without the usual shifting that can occur with a million pins holding it all together.  What's nice it that the spray adhesive cleans up with plain old soap and water plus it's acid free.


The red nylon/spandex fabric is a little beefier then I'd normally use for the cup.  I actually used the fabric for a pair of running tights last year.  My fabrics are both from a clothing manufacturer's warehouse sale I went to last year, so I can't replace this stuff.  I ran out of materials to make a pair of matching undies!


My dark red elastics and straps are from a Merckwaerdigh kit.  I *WISH* I had gold rings and slider  to replace the clear plastic ones that came included on the straps... but these are a wider strap then I usually use and don't have any in my stash.  I normally use 1/2" wide strapping.  The elastic along the top of the upper cup is actually the same as the underarm elastic... I just carefully trimmed off the picot edge.  The black hook & eyes on back along with the underwire casing is from Sew Sassy.  I have a number of different underwires in my stash but the ones from Porcelynne in size 38 have been exactly what I need for my wide, shallow bust.  I made my own little black bow from a spool of ribbon and then added a vintage button.


I don't have my dress form set up to be my perfect duplicate to model the bras I sew, so here is another modest snapshot of this super adorable bra on a body!  It's a really nice, comfy fit.  I wish I pulled the elastic tight for the underarm area, it's a wee bit loose, but not a huge issue at all.  I didn't line the upper cup.  This bra will be really great for less hot weather because it's a bit more substantial then some I wear now.  But that red fabric is a technical fabric and feels GREAT against the skin. So much of my technical/running/activewear fabrics are perfect for using in lingerie making.  I use all the scraps and bits after sewing crazy running tops and tights.  


I should really make a combined list of all the lingerie suppliers I like and/or use.  There are several already out there but none list all the places I frequent.  The one that I find to be the most comprehensive is from Amy over at Cloth Habit.

27 comments:

  1. You are giving me so many good ideas on how to use my fabrics. We really need that warehouse sale to come back.

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    1. I know, I dream of another sale from them... I might just say 'pack it all up and I'll take it all' if they ever do another one.

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  2. Another lovely bra! I'm still hemming and hawing over buying that bra. It's not quite in my size, and we all know what a rabbit hole bra-fitting is! I'm so glad you have god a good fit though. And one thing about patterns for non-stretch - it should be easier to transfer the fitting adjustments to other non-stretch fabrics, right??

    What width are the elastics? I bought a bunch of rings and sliders in the garment district a while back (they're super cheap there!) and if I have any in gold in the right size, their all yours!

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    1. THEY'RE all yours. I annoy myself sometimes haha

      Forgot to say - love the tip about the spray adhesive, great idea!

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    2. Thanks! And I would think most non-stretch fabrics should be interchangeable. The fit would be comparable, unless there is a real difference in the fabrics. There is a great post on Norma's blog today (Orange Lingerie lady) about materials to use for bra sewing. http://www.orange-lingerie.com/2014/your-guide-to-bra-making-materials

      And I'll take whatever bra goodies :) I have been using 1/2" wide strapping. Gosh, thanks!

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  3. Lovely bra! I'm also in love with that pattern and am on my 2nd. I've sewn a 34D and the fit for me has been spot on.

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    1. Thanks! Do you post your sewing online?! I am dying to see someone else's version of this pattern!!

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  4. Gorgeous! I wish I lived near you, I would be coming over to get bra-making lessons:)

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    1. Thanks! I am such a sewing geek, it would be so fun :)

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  5. Gorgeous! Love the black & red.

    Michelle

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  6. I love that you used your running tights tech fabric. I have some from Rose City Textiles in my stash that is destined for a sports bra (on RCT advice), but I keep wanting to make a traditional underwire style with it. Did you have any challenges with the seams and layers being too thick? Do you know how many mils your tech fabric is?

    The bra is simply gorgeous and no one would be the wiser that it isn't some luxurious stretch sateen. Thanks for the tip on spray adhesive and noting it's acid free and easy clean. So awesome.

    In my research, Cloth Habit does have the most extensive list to date.

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    1. Thanks! I don't know the measurement of my fabric's thickness :( Yes, I did have to take care because the seams were a little thicker. I had to make my straight stitches longer... I normally do a 2.4 length but was doing a 2.8 and at moments even a 3.0. I really trimmed down the layers of the seams underneath.

      Check out Orange Lingerie's bra making supply list, too. She has a few unexpected ones, but you probably already saw it! P.S. My new not very secret favorite elastic seller-- LaceHeaven.com. The site is a bit annoying but they have lots of plush elastics.

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  7. This is beautiful, and looks so well done!

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    1. Thanks!!!!! I'm gonna make more and bore everyone's pants off with my posts.

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  8. This bra is fantastic. I'm going to cut one out tomorrow. Do you find the pattern to run true to size with the Pin Up Girls? Please do make more. Your work is so inspiring Well done! :)

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  9. Thanks! I actually compared my Pin Up Girls Classic band bra pattern to this bra here on this post---> http://www.kathy-sews.com/2014/09/orange-lingerie-marlborough-bra-pattern.html
    I think they are comparable as far as sizing. The cup shaping and general design of the two are slightly different. I find the Pin Up one a bit on the pointy side in the cup (not like freakishly pointy, but for comparison's sake) and the Marlborough is a rounder looking cup.

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  10. Wauw its a beuty. I like the colors yuo have used for this bra.

    Corina

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  11. Kathy, it's another wonderful bra! I yearn to create a neon green bra - perhaps someday I can get the color mixture right to make that happen.

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  12. Absolutely gorgeous! I have just bought this pattern for both my daughters together with the Craftsy class as well. I am super excited to get started helping them now that I have seen your beautiful work.

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