It's about fall time and I need some lightweight jackets for everyday as well as for running. I fell fast for McCall's 7026, a pattern with several Lululemon-esque activewear jackets, plus some super basic tights. I sewed up View B with a few changes. I've never ever in my life sewed with fleece and I wanted to do it right a quality one. I got this super soft Polartec Classic 100 for only $3/yard at Mill Yardage. (FYI: The queen of ugly, cheapy quality fleece, Jo@nn Fabrics, actually carries Polartec fleece now-- I saw several basic colors for $9.99/yard, I am sure it's the Classic 100.) You can see I tried to take pics in the yard but the sun is shockingly perfect and bright today causing major overexposure and weird shadows! So I went to the porch next to ye old push lawnmower.
I made slightly above a 14, graded to above a 16 at the waist and then just above an 18 at the hip. I added 1" (2 cm) to the arm length as well as for the bodice. I'd really say I added another 1/2" (1 cm) to the hem as I sewed it up super narrow. My zipper is the recommended 22". I could have used the 24"?! I would like more length on this jacket next time, too. I for some reason cut a straight size 14 for the arms and sewed it a little snugger then that, the arms are a tad tight.
The back hemline doesn't dip down low like all the technical drawings indicate. There is a line on the pattern pieces for the low dipping hem as well as a line for a straight back hem. The princess seaming is fantastic for easy altering. I wish the sleeves were two pieces for a more accurate fit.
I did not do the piping on the seams, I wanted them free so I was able to take in/out anything as I sewed. I'd do the piping next time. You can also see I excluded the hand warmer thingies... that is one of the main elements I love about the pattern. Why did I get rid of 'em then?!
Look at the pic right above, it was during sewing while those hand things were on. They were super awkward with the thick layers of black fleece AND the arm was all bunched up and looked so weird. They got chopped off. My next version will have a modified version of the hand cuffs. And I also hacked out my pockets. I used a mesh fabric but they added a weird bulk and kept bunching up. I should have understitched the pocket, this would have helped. Plus they were in an awkward location in the seams, it just felt weird to put my hands in it. Goodbye pockets. I'll do pockets in another one.
The zipper I used is not the best at all. It's a Coats & Clark separating zipper, it's so crappy. I tried to press it flatter, it's just bumpy and distorts the fabric. But to be honest, it's not a complete deal breaker, I'll wear this still. Another modification I will make on Version 2: I will add that little fabric tab that folds over the top of the zipper to stop it from scratching my neck. You know, that little bit that the lady in purple has on her zipper here on the right.
The jacket is unlined. And I totally never got around to blogging about this super cute white Fehr Trade XYT Top (previous version are here, here, and here.) I used a New Balance spun polyester activewear fabric (from Fabric Mart, but it's no longer available). It's super soft, lighter weight, but after wearing it for several runs I've decided the fabric may be better for cold weather base layering since it felt like I was retaining more heat the I liked. The cherries are a nylon/spandex swimwear I got last year from Fabric Fairy (it's not on their site anymore either.)
You can't see it very clearly but the black fleece has these lines running through it. This material is from the Flawed/Overstock sale and this is actually a "flaw"... but it looks really cool and adds texture. Plus I was freakishly careful and got every seam and line all lined up ever so perfectly with all that piecing! Happy dance! No one will ever care besides me though. You can see the lines in the pic below, I had to take it off and hold it up to the light.
This a great little wearable muslin. I did follow along with directions for maybe 3/4 of the project, and they are solid. I used my serger for all my seams and took care to switch thread colors when sewing on the pink or the black. On to the next project!