Thursday, July 31, 2014

Vogue 1314: The Kaleidoscope Scuba Knit Dress -- A Saucy Oonapalooza Dress



I've had Vogue 1314, a Tracy Reese pattern, in my stash for quite some time.  All that shirring to flatter the figure plus the ease of construction and a lining made it one of the top rated and most reviewed patterns in 2013.  Now it's my turn!  The design is a blank palette so I had to use this crazy kaleidoscope looking scuba knit, a recent acquisition from Julie's Picks from Fabric Mart.  And I can't not enter this one into the Oonpalooza Fest, too... that print is crazy fun!  






I cut a size 16 and graded to a 20 at the hip-- a normal choice for me.  Oh, my it was quite large!  I had to go back in and trim off about 2" (5 cm) to EACH side seam, yeah, a total of probably more then 4" (10cm).  I think all that shirring causes it to have sooo much extra room in the bodice.  I found I didn't need to go down about 2" (5 cm) total on the lining.  I added an extra inch (2.5 cm) to the hem of the sleeves... but didn't add any to the bodice length as I usually do since I'm 2" (5 cm) taller then what Vogue patterns are drafted for.


Now, after getting it on and looking in the mirror, I was a bit nervous about the placement of the print on my derriere.  You can see above that purple blob on the butt... are people going to be looking at it trying to do a Rorschach test as I walk around town?  It looks much less odd in the photos then when I was in my dark sewing room in my basement.  But I love the print on the upper back!  I wonder if the clothing manufacturer (Maggy London) who used this material meant this to be the edge of the print and not the center? 



The key to sewing this dress is purely getting the fit right... after that you can bust a move and make so many cute dresses.  I see this as a LBD in the right fabric, yes?! Maybe leave of the sleeves?   And look at that side shirring...


Okay, this next photo made me laugh... it says "I'm serious and I like corn".  My son was just picking corn a couple minutes before I took these photos.  I didn't even consider they were there... but dang, I look intense about it.


The scuba knit here is a moderate 4-way stretch material with great recovery, plus it's a double knit made from a poly spandex.  The reverse is a solid white.  It's super soft and comfy.  I used a brown, thinner poly fabric with a widthwise 2-way stretch (used here for this bodysuit as well), it's perfect here.


Overall, this dress has some weight to it, it'll be great for fall.  I used my serger for the seams and a 80/12 jersey ballpoint needle.  But when it came to hemming with my twin needle... ugh.. the scuba was a butt and there were skipped stitches left and right.  So I busted out my hand dandy Pellon Easy Knit Tape and ironed it to the wrong side of the skirt hem, folded it up and had zero problems sewing... I just used my ballpoint for a plain, long straight stitch.  I can't run or do yoga in the dress since the hem isn't stretchy now.


It's a fun dress!  I'm gonna even enter it into the Pattern Stash contest on Pattern Review along with the other 9,403 entries already on there.  Why not?!  

2014 PATTERN STASH CONTEST (July 1 - July 31)




21 comments:

  1. Okay. I am so glad you reviewed this dress because of the fabric. I have the same one (of course I do, seems we like the same stuff, lol), and I am freaked out by it...so I get to refer back to this for help when I actually sew it up. So from a selfish perspective, THANK YOU!

    Now, onto the goodie that is that dress on you. Wow. That looks amazing. It will be a wonderful choice for this fall and winter. I know you are in MD, but even with the recent cooler summer temps (amazing, amiright?), I bet this was still to warm for now. I give you credit for wearing it for a photograph OUTSIDE. :)

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    1. Thanks! I've found there are different scuba knits, they all seem to have variances in them. But a ball point needle will do best... do a test on a scrap first. I always save the weird little chunks of the fabrics that come from cutting the pattern out and do loads of stitching tests if I need.

      I am sure the twin needle was being annoying and skipping because it is NOT a ball point needle. What's funny is that I don't know if Schmetz makes ball point twin needles... do they?! I need to know. Why did I not have that revelation before this moment?!

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    2. I have never seen the ball point variety, only the stretch ones, so yeah, who knows? G Street carries every type they make, it seems, so maybe Schmetz needs to get on it already.

      Thanks for the extra tips!!! :)

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    3. Ahh! A stretch twin needle. I'm going to get one. Like now. Why haven't I before!? I'm the queen of sewing knits.

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    4. I love twin needles, and yes, there are both ballpoint and stretch varieties. I've found that the stretch version works better, since it's basically a ballpoint tip but with a longer shaft designed to minimize skipped stitches. I have some from Schmetz and Klasse in different widths. I got them off Amazon.

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    5. Yeah, finally I came to that realization this week. So silly! I always have been buying machine needles just at JoAnn's... they don't sell stretch twin needles, so it was off my radar. I'll just pick them up at Wawak when I place an order this week.

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  2. hahahaha CORN SHOT!

    that print is amazing. i know what you mean about crazy prints like that, something. will always. end up on your butt. but i think you landed on the right something. :) and scuba material, genius!

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    1. Thanks, lady! And tonight we feast on corn from the garden.

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  3. Great job! We're pinning it to our Fan Gallery on Pinterest, if you don't mind.

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    1. Thanks! And, yes, feel free to pin away :)

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  4. This print grabbed my attention in Julie's picks too. I'm always such a chicken when it comes to sewing crazy prints like this. I can never envision what it'll end up looking like in my head so I love seeing it come to life. I like it lots!!

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    1. Thanks! This stuff is pretty juicy. And I basically got it for free because I used that $$ off coupon from the June Julies pick mailer.

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  5. This is a beautiful dress! It looks really flattering on you, too. I'm glad you entered the pattern stash contest, and I had to laugh because there really are A LOT of entries!!!!!!! I have no idea how they are going to judge that thing!

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    1. Thank you!! Ruching flatters a girl hiding stuff nicely. And I just re-read the contest rules, the winner is based on who sews the MOST stash patterns. That ain't me by a long shot. But they choose a random winner, too.

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  6. awesome dress! I am seeing this scuba knit stuff pop up everywhere and kinda thinking WTF? Glad to hear it got a good review from you as far as wearability (if not hem-ability) goes.

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    1. Thanks! Yeah, scuba is all over the place. I think because it must have been on runways or something in the past few years... now it's trickling down to us non-high fashion people. I wonder if it's made it's way to t@rget and W@lm@rt yet?!

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  7. <3 this is gorgeous! The print does not overwhelm at all and the side rouching is so completely fabulous and flattering!

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    1. Thanks! I feel like Im a solids kind of girl in normal life but I don't know who I am fooling, I love color and prints, too.

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  8. Love the print and the pattern. Awesome dress!

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  9. Love this dress. The fabric is gorgeous and that pattern is super flattering. Interesting about the scuba knit too. I just bought some to make a pencil skirt, but I haven't sewed with it before.

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  10. I love the shirring so much. You look fantastic! And I have always wondered about scuba knits. I've heard the name thrown around a lot but haven't ever actually seen any in real life. I'm assuming they are thicker than your average double knit? I like my knits to be on the thicker side. I came here via oonapalloza, by the way. Love both the dresses that you made!

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