I have a number of things I've sewn up in the past weeks that have not been blogged about. I need closure on these garments, so I am going to start off with these really great new sweatpants. This here pattern is the creation of Kelli from True Bias, it's her first.... the Hudson Pant. I needed this pattern in my life. I'm gonna sew up more when the weather cools down. Kelli describes them to have an urban fit with space in the hip, tapering to a skinny leg. I live in a city, need space in the hips and prefer a tapered leg these days... sign me up! She actually put a call out for pattern testers on the higher end of her pattern sizing so I volunteered to test.
I pulled my shirt up a tad so you can see where the waistline sits. These pants are no low riders but don't sit up too high either. I love the rise of these. The back is cut a little higher and the front a little lower-- this accommodates your bum nicely. There's not a weird low rise showing off the butt crack. I cut a 12 waist and graded to between a 16 and 18 hip. Her sizing chart is quite accurate, I went with the size that was closest to my own measurements. I did a full rear adjustment... I simply added about 1" to the back crotch length. I got big buns, you know. The pattern is sized for a 5'4" (1.63 m) body... I'm 5'8" (1.73 m), so I just added 4" (10 cm) to the inseam. It's hard to tell, but the leg bags over the cuff some. I will only add about 2" (5 cm) next time. Plus I feel like I need to size down a little in the hip to a straight 16. FYI: Her sizing is 0-18, that's 34-46.5" (86-118 cm) hip. I find her pattern draft to be comparable to RTW sizing.
I used a really cool looking mottled black print fabric. It's a cotton knit with craptacular recovery (I wore these to sleep in while camping a few weeks ago and they stretched out like nuts.) I used this fabric for a Vogue dress I made last year. The white pocket edge is a scrap of ponte. I lined the pockets with a blue mesh. That tie on the waist came from an old pair of too large running shorts. And a secret: the ties aren't threaded through the waist, just tied through the holes in front (I dropped the long string I needed behind my dresser and was too lazy to move it to retrieve it, so I used this smaller bit for decorative purposes.) I will surely thread the tie in the waist next time, it would be helpful to tighten the waist if needed.
I wish I took better photos of these before I ripped a whole in the seam. These are the pics I sent Kelli after testing them, just to show her how they fit. I was putting them on in the dark of the night in a tent in the woods when I realized I was cold, then put them on but stepped on them funny and there was a tear. Ugh! But I have to say, Kelli really did a top notch job with her first pattern. I am impressed with the high quality of the directions and illustrations. She just did a round up of (most) of her Hudson Pant testers... I was an idiot and forgot to let her know it was okay to use my version on her blog. You can see on other folks how they are a closer fit on them and see how mine fit a little longer on the leg causing some extra fullness--- but I like the look! I HAVE to sew more of these for fall and winter... I shiver and shake with coldness in my old age when the the cold weather arrives.
Talking about old age... it's my birthday this month and I'm doing a pretty nice little giveaway with patterns and a book and some international sewing pattern magazines. Presents for everyone!