|The Marc Jacobs inspiration jacket|
I am so excited about my latest ridiculously functional sewn garment here... it's inspired by this $430 Marc Jacobs rain jacket, but not meant to be a complete knockoff. I spotted this water repellent Marc Jacobs flame red cotton nylon poplin on Fabric Mart's website a few months back, then found that ready-made jacket online using this same fabric, and finally bought three yards for my Mother's Day gift to myself in May. I've had Simplicity 2153, an anorak coat, on my radar for a number of months, I made View C. I found this perfectly matching red nylon mesh from FM a couple weeks ago for the lining.
My last raincoat was a classic black, Burberry inspired trench... that one took some muslining and loads more work and ain't meant for hiking in the woods. (I was loving Nakisha's version of this anorak... AND she made her's with the same fabric as my Burberry knockoff...ALMOST twinsies... sorta...?!) But this go round I really wanted a hooded and lined lightweight sporty raincoat/windbreaker sort of thing. The pattern neither has a hood or a lining. I had to draft my own hood. I looked at my husband's LL Bean raincoat for some guidance on how to work up the right sized hood. Mine ended up being a wee bit more snug then I intended but it's gonna keep the rain off my head nicely... I did want it to be fairly close fitting though to prevent rain from coming in or the hood blowing off in the wind. I simply measured his readymade jacket's hood, measured the collar on my jacket, then used these measurements to draw a head-shaped pattern piece.
I flipped the jacket inside out and put in on in the photo directly below on the left. You can see how the red mesh lines the jacket perfectly. It gives it a nice slippery, comfy feel inside. I used the mesh for the hood plus front and back bodice pieces only-- the sleeves, upper back bodice and collar are lined with the poplin. I excluded the facings because ONE I ran out of interfacing, and TWO, I was too lazy to sew them in even if I had the interfacing. I also excluded the shoulder tabs/epaulets... I just wasn't in an epaulets sort of mood for this jacket... I do like them, but sometimes you just want no shoulder decorations.
The lining is basically an entire second jacket without the back loop and a variation of the pockets. 1) I sewed up the outer shell with the zipper already attached and sewed up the inner parts 2) Before I hemmed anything, top stitched the zipper on the outside or attached the lined hood/collar, I sewed the lining in, right sides facing on the zippered edges, flipped out the jacket to the right sides, then top stitched the zipper 3) I basted the lining neckline to the main 4) I left the hemming of the sleeves last of all. 5) Then I attached the lined hood to the collar, sewed the collar as the directions explain and attached the collar/hood bit on the jacket as per the instructions.
After examining my hubby's readymade jacket, I saw he had some secret inside pockets, so of course I added one on my lower front bodice on the inside. I made a simple square pocket using the same techniques from the outer pockets... then added some velcro to keep it shut. The pocket is made of the cotton/nylon fabric, too. I should have added the flaps over the outer pockets like the inspiration jacket to make them more functional, but alas I have this super secret one inside. And look close, you can seen how I not only sew my velcro around the perimeter to attach it, but also make an "X" with my stitching-- this reinforces the velcro. Personal experience has taught me to sew the heck out of velcro to keep it attached over the lifetime of a garment.
The construction was quite easy, I didn't make any sort of muslin. I cut my usual Simplicity size: a 14 neck/bust then graded to a 16 waist and 18 hip. This is a lightweight jacket and is a roomy fit, if I were to make a heavier weight one I would surely go up a size. And technically if I follow the Simplicity sizing guidelines I would be a 16-18-20 (bust-waist-hip)... the wearing/design ease is quite large. I also added 1" (2.5 cm) length the the bodice and sleeve lengths. The sleeves are very, very full and I cut off about 2" (5 cm) of the width of them right before sewing the lining into the shell. I still used a 24" zipper as the pattern recommends because I didn't find a 25" one at my local big box fabric store. The cording on the waist is a nylon paracord from the craft department at W@lm@rt I happened to come across (they have a bunch of colors.) That store has a handful of useful very economical sewing notions, I can't lie.
I went camping this weekend (I took all my photos at my campsite). During my packing I realized that two of my really old, cheap-o folding fabric camp chairs were disintegrating and had to be tossed out... so I snagged the black toggle cord stoppers on their storage bags and put them on the on the waist. I used some regular, boring white velcro for the neckline, I wanted red but was too lazy to track any down.
I ended up not needing to wear the jacket at camp... there was rain earlier in the day before we got to the site. But somehow the coat wreaks of campfire now! Well, everything will smell like campfire for days no matter what. Oh, and I am going to enter this into the Sporty Summer Sewathon hosted by Did You Make That? This is actually some activewear I sewed that's not for running!!