Sunday, July 27, 2014

Burda 8/2014 #116: Hi-Lo Dress With A Back Cutout (Plus It's OonaPalooza Time?!)


I was speedy fast with getting this dress done in time for two reasons:
1) It's my super fun birthday dress for later this month!
2) Oonapalooza time is almost up and I wanted to join the fun!
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Oonapalooza



This is the hi-lo dress #116 from the the August 2014 issue of Burda (also available as a download here.)  I'm not one for the mullet dress or a backless look on me but this one whispered my name and said "Hey, go get that bright tropical hibiscus floral print on that rayon challis you bought in the winter and make me now".  It came from Fabric Mart's Julie's Picks Club.  I cut a straight size 42 with zero alterations.  The skirt is so full I had no reason to grade out the hips to my usual 46.  I was too lazy to work up a muslin, and now I have several fit issues, but they aren't the end of the world.  I totally forgot to add a little extra length to the bodice, I generally add 1-2" (2.5-5 cm) and now the waist is sitting a little higher then I'd like.  But I must say, I'm really happy with the location of were the back cutout sits-- it covers everything that needs covering (i.e. bra band and butt.)  The shoulder seams are riding back a touch because the bodice is slightly too short.  But you'd never notice, so who cares.



The directions are classically terrible Burda magazine directions.  This dress is not complicated to sew but to try to follow their poorly translated steps... oh, man, what a headache.  But like a good seamstress, I read them over to see if I could comprehend them.  It appears all most of the info is there but it's bamboozled.  So if need to rely heavily on directions when you sew, don't bang your head against the wall with this one.  Otherwise, you'll be a-okay.  


The bodice is fully lined with the same fashion fabric.  I had 3 yards of material and it worked out just fine but I had to piece the front bodice lining together and sew a center seam because I couldn't get a perfect full piece out of my yardage.  Now what does Burda forget to include in their directions?  They don't mention to do any understitching along the neckline, sleeves or back opening.  I always understitch because I hate when the lining starts to fold outward every so slightly as the garment is being worn.  They forget to tell you to trim most of your seam allowances. They don't specify why you need or how to attach elastic the your drawstring... they give some convoluted explanation on the elastic but I couldn't decipher it.  So this is what I did-- I cut about a 2" (5 cm) length of my 1/4" elastic and sewed one end of the drawstring to one side, then the other drawstring to the other.  When it's have the drawstring in the casing in back, this little bit of elastic in the center of the string creates a nice ease in the otherwise non-stretch drawstring.

I also had to go rogue with sewing in the facing/casing on the back cutout.  Sewing it on was nothing new or mind blowing but the directions manage to blow my face off with confusion.  I simply sewed the ends of the two facing pieces together t make ta big circle.  I pinned it on the back opening, right sides together and sewed it on with my 5/8" seam allowance I use.  I then trimmed the seam allowance and understitched.  I flipped it inside, wrong sides facing now, and ironed it.  I ironed the 5/8" seam allowance on the other side in and under the facing and sewed it to the dress to form the casing, leaving about 3" (7.5 cm) open to allow me to string my drawstring through.  After getting the drawstring through, I sewed up that last little open bit.  Yeah, I know, I should have taken photos.


Rayon challis loves a good french seam so this is how I finished this relatively straight seamed skirt.  Plus with a mullet hem I didn't really want serged edges flipping around as I walked.   I made machine rolled hems.  I could have done an invisible hem, but dang... the other option is so fast and works beautifully.  I love how you can barely see any of that stuff when I flip the skirt up to see the inside in the photo below.  


Check out how full that back panel on the skirt is!  I needed a gust of wind to do a saucy Marylin Monroe skirt blowing up sort of photo.  But there wasn't any gusting, so I held it up and out so you can see how huge the back is.


I may already worn the dress today and my birthday isn't even here yet.  It's summer, it's a fun, colorful dress...  I couldn't help myself.


I had to take my pictures in quick shifts.  My yard has been invaded by these crazy HUGE bugs called cicada killers-- they are humongous, look like killer death wasps and chase me when I'm nearby.  Luckily they are basically harmless and could care less about people.  The last photo is of me looking back and realizing I had one of those bugs looking at me while it sat on a flower.  Inside I went.


29 comments:

  1. So lovely! And totally Oona! I love the back and hem shape!

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  2. What an amazing dress! This is going on my to sew list!

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    1. Thanks! Oh, yes, sew this! I want to see other versions!!

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  3. I like it a lot, the shape is fun and your fabric is so pretty!

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    1. Thank you so much. I was waiting to find the right pattern for this fabric... and finally this Burda showed up this month and the pattern was there.

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  4. Really like the shape of this dress...looks perfect for summer and your birthday!

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    1. Thank you so much!! It's a fun little dress that's a little different then what I'd normally wear, I'm glad I just jumped on the pattern and made it.

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  5. Very pretty dress. I like it with all the flora ! I can feel your excitement, now that you have worn it before the D Day. Many time I did it too :D

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    1. Thanks Diya!! Maybe I should call it my Birthday Week Dress... I wore it on Sunday and my birthday is Wednesday... so it's all good :)

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  6. Perfectly beautiful! I love the hi-lo hem and you're rockin' it for sure!

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    1. Thanks! It's oddly enough my 1st hi-lo dress, even through all the hi-lo hem craze in the past few years.

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  7. Oh I think I need this one Kathy! I LOVE it!!!

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  8. Awesome! I love this! If only I was brave enough to attempt a burda pattern...

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    1. Thanks! Cmon now... YOU can do a Burda pattern. I've seen what you've sewn :)

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  9. omg I saw this in the latest Burda and thought cute - but your version! I DIE! So gorgeous!! I need to make this up ASAP!
    Also thanks for reviewing Burda's weirdness, too.. I have been subscribed to it for a couple months but have been hesitant to make anything because of Burda's notoriously bad instructions.. I think armed with the knowledge in this post I can get through making this pattern! ;D

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    1. Thank you so much!! Don't be scared of the poor directions Burda usually has... just bust a move and try one. I LOVE seeing people make the same pattern as me, then I can see what I screwed up on or enjoy seeing more inspiration.

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  10. Wow! Your dress is beautiful! I love the keyhole in the back, and the high-lo hem!!!

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  11. Wow, this dress is awesome! I totally was not expecting the back, awesome dress..

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  12. This pattern caught my eye too, with its Interesting back cut out. Your dress is so cute, and in a great summer time print. Happy Birthday!

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  13. HOW DARE THOSE KILLER BUGS MEANCE YOU IN THIS DRESS!! well, actually they probably think you are a delightful flower...because you are...

    perfect birthday dress, and perfect palooza make!

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  14. Squeee! Okay, I'm popping by to say hello, and to swoon a little over your dress! It's ever so pretty, it is! I think it's perfectly awesome that you and I both used the exact same fabric for our Oona inspired sewing! Birds of a feather and all....well done!

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  15. Look at you, Kathy, with your unexpected sexy! Love it!!

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  16. fab dress! i already prepared the pattern and fabric, and hope to finish my version today!

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  17. Whooo hoo I love it when people make up the exact burdas that I like in the latest magazine. So fantastic to see real ones in the wild :) Your version is fab, and rayon challis is probably the perfect fabric for summer.

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