Pants fitting has always been a sore spot for me... handmade ones and the RTW ones. I need shorts and pants for the impending warmer seasons and I ain't buying those ill-fitting RTW things. I chose Simplicity 1887, a really easy shorts pattern to work on a few of my fitting issues. And holy crap... I have pleasantly surprised myself here with how it fits my rear end! This pattern has a weird elastic back waist, not my favorite look but it seems to work pretty well.
This pattern has MASSIVE amounts of ease at 7.5" (19 cm). According to the pattern size chart I should have made a 14/16 waist and 20 hip. I made a 12 waist and a 16 hip with alterations to the crotch depth and curve to fit my fuller bum and thighs. After much contemplation, thought and reading I realized I have to (almost) always make these alterations to pants/shorts patterns. Look at this mess I drafted last year.. ugh... before REALLY taking the time to consider some stuff. Yep, I've made pants since then with decent success, but they were things like spandex running tights or stretchy woven leggings that work well without hyper-crazy-detailed fitting.
This is how I altered the pattern to fit my back side. I have a larger butt that sits lower then most folks' and larger thighs. I scooped out the crotch curve to let my butt have space to be a big butt. I added about 3/4" (2 cm) to the crotch depth-- this is key to getting the back waist to sit up where it should. You big butted girls know how it goes when you buy pants, the back drops down too low below your waist. Sewing forces me to address and just totally accept these differences in my figure. I got a traffic-stopping booty, ya'll and I don't mind! So when I say I have a large bum, translate that as "I have a rear that is shaped larger then what patterns happen to be designed for and I have to take a few extra minutes to alter my pattern first, no big woop".
Now let's take a less then sexy look at these shorts in their full glory. They have an elastic back waist, not the best looking. I chose a very casual linen fabric that can work pretty well with this sort of look. These shorts are an opportunity to sport one of those mullet shirts to cover this up but show the front tie. Anyhow... I am flipping EXCITED about how the butt fits! No wrinkling. No bunching. It hits the widest part of me and flows. WHAT!?!?! I just stood there and took photos and the shorts just did what they were supposed to do. Even the side seam runs perfectly vertical to the floor.
The tie in front is cute. The angled pockets aren't ideal for my figure, but they work well enough considering the butt fits so well!!!! The elastic in back continues around to the edge of the tie, this made that edge gap up some and the pocket gets a little gap-y.
I am lukewarm for front pleats like this, they can puff out and look odd. In the photo below I walked forward to show how they actually don't poof out like I expected. Another win!
They look pretty adorable on the hanger. You can see some of the wacky variations in the fabric. I actually dyed my fabric this way. It was originally a very dull, depressing pale grayish-green. I had this linen in my stash for about five years, it came from Fashion Fabrics Club and it needed a color boost. I used Rit Dye in Denim Blue for these. With about 4 yards (3 1/3 m) and a too small pot, I caused some tie-dyed effects on the material (by mistake!) I also through in a few yards of various stretch laces I had to use in some future lingerie projects (those dye jobs turned out perfectly.)
My hems are uber short. I serged the edge on the raw hem, folded them up barely a 1/2" (1.25 cm) and top stitched. I'm 5'8" (1.73 m) and this pattern is drafted for girls who are 5'6" (1.67 m.) I serged all of my seams inside to finish them. The pattern calls for two rows of 3/4" (1.9 cm) wide elastic-- the best I had in my stash was 1" (2.5 cm) wide stuff. I just used this for one row and it works just fine.
|Woo hoo! Shorts that fit! Now if those 6" of snow outside will melt...|
I feel like this is GIANT step forward for me and sewing up my own pants and shorts. I can't wait to sew up some actual pants soon. And I can't wait for warmer weather.