The main fabric is from FabricMart, a black double woven water repellent wool/poly material. It's very tightly woven and has a twill-like texture. The red bemberg lining is from Joann Fabrics, they surprisingly stock a handful of colors there. Bemberg (aka Ambiance or Bember rayon) is a an economical, better quality lining fabric. I didn't want to use a fancy silk or something that would be easily water damaged, this is meant to be worn in the rain and elements. I found my black buttons at the same store.
I am so glad I tediously worked on a muslin to get the fit right. I was able to dramatically improve a shoulder/sleeve issue. I originally had some really bad and ugly wrinkles on my back shoulder area but now they've almost disappeared-- I think I could have detailed that area even more... but honestly I think I'm being too tough on myself on this issue... I am sure some of the "wrinkles" are from the natural movement of the the arms as I walk and move. When I stand perfectly still with my arms at my side, the shoulders have no wrinkles. Also, I never ended using my custom shoulder pads... my shoulders looked HUGE with them in so I ripped them out seconds before I hand sewed my sleeve lining into place.
Like I said in my last post, my biggest issue was finding a place that sold basic black slider buckles for the belt and sleeves. I found these ones from Cleaner's Supply. The pattern calls for 1 1/4" buckles for the sleeve, I had my straps already sewn up... the ones from supplier only had 1" buckles, so I re-drafted the straps to fit. Easy peasy! I opted for the "imitation leather" buckles-- these are actually just a hard, sturdy plastic.
The pattern I used is really terrific. There is a full lining included, a proper pleat in the back lining for a good fit, welt pockets in the seams and princess seams for easier fitting.
This coat did pass today's road test out in the rain... although I had to take cover for a little bit when I was out in it taking pictures.
And here's another little flash of the lining. If you notice, I did fold over epaulets. I really liked the look of the ones on my inspiration coat. I think most patterns I looked at had just a flat tab with a button that were sewn into the sleeve seam.
Overall I'm super pleased with this garment. I'm glad I took my time and planned it all out. Now I'm on to my next project!
**The floral dress is one I made last year. You can read my blog post about it here.
**The photo shoot was on location here in Baltimore at the abandoned building at the Baltimore Streetcar Museum.