Friday, February 21, 2014

Vogue 8884: Designer Inspired Trench Coat-- Completed!

I'm loving this coat!  I wore it out on a blustery, rainy day to take these pictures and I was dry and happy.  It was even warm enough to wear it out to a delicious dinner at a Nepalese place tonight, too (this was a landmark event as I can count on both hands how many times me and my hubby have been out in the past three years.)


This trench is a direct product of winning third place in the Fabricista Fashion Challenge I participated in last year.  With my winnings I chose a handful of various yards of fabric to sew up quality, classic pieces, starting with this coat.  You can see my two other posts that document my progress and its details on this coat here and here.


To review the basics of this project: I was inspired by a Burberry coat with a price tag well over normal folks' budget at $2200.  I used Vogue 8884 for my pattern. I drafted the front storm flap, the back storm flap and epaulets.


The main fabric is from FabricMart, a black double woven water repellent wool/poly material.  It's very tightly woven and has a twill-like texture.  The red bemberg lining is from Joann Fabrics, they surprisingly stock a handful of colors there.  Bemberg (aka Ambiance or Bember rayon) is a an economical, better quality lining fabric.  I didn't want to use a fancy silk or something that would be easily water damaged, this is meant to be worn in the rain and elements.  I found my black buttons at the same store.


I am so glad I tediously worked on a muslin to get the fit right.  I was able to dramatically improve a shoulder/sleeve issue.  I originally had some really bad and ugly wrinkles on my back shoulder area but now they've almost disappeared-- I think I could have detailed that area even more... but honestly I think I'm being too tough on myself on this issue... I am sure some of the "wrinkles" are from the natural movement of the the arms as I walk and move.  When I stand perfectly still with my arms at my side, the shoulders have no wrinkles.  Also, I never ended using my custom shoulder pads... my shoulders looked HUGE with them in so I ripped them out seconds before I hand sewed my sleeve lining into place.


Like I said in my last post, my biggest issue was finding a place that sold basic black slider buckles for the belt and sleeves.  I found these ones from Cleaner's Supply.  The pattern calls for 1 1/4" buckles for the sleeve, I had my straps already sewn up... the ones from supplier only had 1" buckles, so I re-drafted the straps to fit.  Easy peasy!  I opted for the "imitation leather" buckles-- these are actually just a hard, sturdy plastic.


The pattern I used is really terrific.  There is a full lining included, a proper pleat in the back lining for a good fit, welt pockets in the seams and princess seams for easier fitting.


This coat did pass today's road test out in the rain... although I had to take cover for a little bit when I was out in it taking pictures.


And here's another little flash of the lining.  If you notice, I did fold over epaulets.  I really liked the look of the ones on my inspiration coat.  I think most patterns I looked at had just a flat tab with a button that were sewn into the sleeve seam.  


Overall I'm super pleased with this garment.  I'm glad I took my time and planned it all out.  Now I'm on to my next project!


**The floral dress is one I made last year.  You can read my blog post about it here.
**The photo shoot was on location here in Baltimore at the abandoned building at the Baltimore Streetcar Museum.

49 comments:

  1. Oh my goodness! This is amazing! I love the red lining. Those buckles give it such a perfect finish, too!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thank you so much! I chose red because any of the lighter color Bembergs I found were too transparent for my dark black fabric.

      Delete
  2. Very inspiring. You added some very well thought out details and executed them well.

    ReplyDelete
  3. It looks amazing, Kathy! You did such a great job on this. You'll enjoy wearing this for years!

    ReplyDelete
  4. Beautiful! You did a fantastic job. It's a really great trench.

    ReplyDelete
  5. I think it is a master piece! I could never imagine myself sewing a garment like this...When i was studying in Florence, back on 2003 i was trying to save money to buy a 700€ trench like yours! I never achieved it naturally...I'm saying that it is so cool that you can sew so high quality and expensive garments. It's 100% perfect and it suit great on you. Well done!!

    ReplyDelete
  6. Looks fantastic! Probably better than the Burberry. I'm a big believer in making your own high-end stuff. The retail markup on a lot of designer fashion and accessories is 90%! If you make it yourself, it fits better, too. You coat is an excellent example of that!

    ReplyDelete
  7. This is truly, truly gorgeous Kathy! You have produced some nice garments but this is really some kind of masterpiece! Love. Love. Love!

    ReplyDelete
  8. I love your coat! You're right: it is timeless and classic!

    ReplyDelete
  9. ohhh! This is SO beautiful! And those buckles look great!

    ReplyDelete
  10. What an absolutely great jacket!! Btw, when my 4 yr. old daughter saw the first picture of you on standing on the tracks, she immediately said "Ooooh mommy, she's doing something dangerous!" LOL!

    ReplyDelete
  11. Thank you, ma'am! Now show me some sweet coat making on your blog. I think you help convinc me that I am in love with that Burda illusion coat, but I don't know if I NEED one.

    ReplyDelete
  12. Thank you so much!! I cannot afford (like most folks!) anything high end so I just have to make my own versions. I am more then sure the markup for that coat retail priced is significantly higher then 90%. I worked with craft artists (and was one for a period of time) that had to price their work wholesale and retail... General basic rule of thumb of pricing is cost+labor x 2 = wholesale then double that price = retail. And Burberry has the name recognition power to increase the retail price even more.

    ReplyDelete
  13. Aww! Thank you so much ! I have worn this coat 2xs's already and it's just perfect for spring-like days.

    ReplyDelete
  14. Thanks!! I'm happy to have it in my closet now to wear. I've always wanted something like this.

    ReplyDelete
  15. Thank you so much Gail :) I actually peaked back at your posts on your coat making (that Burda floral one) to help me think out my process as I went. I love the interwebz!

    ReplyDelete
  16. Thank you so much Annette :) I really had fun with it all.

    ReplyDelete
  17. Thank Helena! The buckles turned out to be exactly what I wanted, it was a stroke of luck to find the finally!

    ReplyDelete
  18. This is wonderful!!! You did such a fabulous job!

    ReplyDelete
  19. Very Nice! I'll take one in pink, please =]

    ReplyDelete
  20. This is gorgeous! You did a great job, and it looks very RTW! Even better than your inspiration coat ;)

    ReplyDelete
  21. Kathy this looks fantastic! Really, really well done! :)

    ReplyDelete
  22. That is one truly amazing garment. LOVE IT. Your top stitching on the belt and cuff is amazing! You've done incredibly to take the pattern to where it is. It looks great :)

    ReplyDelete
  23. I really love how your coat turned out! Definitely worth your time. I was wondering, what kind of fabric you used and where you got it? Is it very water proof? I would love to one day make something like this. Great job!

    ReplyDelete
  24. Thank you so much!! It's unfortunately no longer available at Fabric Mart, but I know they sell other water repellent fabrics. This is REALLY water repellent. I tested it... poured water on a swatch, for a random experiment I used a warm iron with steam on a scrap (the steam absorbed but then quickly evaporated), then the day I took the photos it rained 1/3 of the time I was out there... the rain beaded right up on the fabric.

    ReplyDelete
  25. Wow! Thanks so much for such kind words.

    ReplyDelete
  26. Thanks Monica... I would have never been able to fit a RTW so well on me since I have such a pear-shape... maybe I could get close, but never really right, like the coats I already had.

    ReplyDelete
  27. Thanks! Oooooh... pink! I like that idea.

    ReplyDelete
  28. Thank you Kelly. I had a load of fun making it.

    ReplyDelete
  29. Holy sh1tballs, this is amazing! The fabric choice is perfect, the belt thingies are perfect, I love the extra lines of sewing on the belt, the fit is perfect. You can seriously just drop the mike and walk off in triumph!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Ha! This comment killed me! I love it! Thank you so much :)

      Delete
  30. I figured that. Her comment just made me laugh! I will let her know you were being perfectly safe :-).

    ReplyDelete
  31. This comment has been removed by a blog administrator.

    ReplyDelete
  32. Kathy, this is amazing! All that fit work you did really paid off. I love all of the details (like the buckles and the epaulets), and the red lining is so perfect!

    ReplyDelete
  33. Gorgeous coat! The fit is absolutely perfect! The storm flap front is my favorite detail. It's all amazing. Great job!

    ReplyDelete
  34. Oh my goodness! What a fabulous job you have done Kathy! Very professional looking! And congrats on your earlier win. Off to check it out!

    ReplyDelete
  35. Wow! Your coat is stunning. the level of your craftsmanship is truly impressive. Your careful work really shows. Well done!

    ReplyDelete
  36. Your attention to detail and your sewing skills are exceptional and beautifully showcased in this fabulous coat. Wear it with pride.

    ReplyDelete
  37. This is such a truly gorgeous coat, Kathy! You did an outstanding job! This is so timeless and you'll be able to wear it for many years!

    ReplyDelete
  38. Thanks, Tanya! Hope you're doing well... I can't wait to see more juicy garments on you blog sometime soon

    ReplyDelete
  39. Thank you so much Jean :) I will be able wear it one day again... the cold winter here won't quite! Ughhhh!

    ReplyDelete
  40. This comment has been removed by a blog administrator.

    ReplyDelete
  41. And disqus has been removed, it has been all over the place for me deleting comments and causing me too many issues for the entire time I had it.

    ReplyDelete
  42. Good for you! I don't like disqus... it keeps me away from commenting on blogs... Well, now to that beautiful trench coat: It is stunning! It's hard to believe that it is handmade. You made a terrific job! Oh, and I love the red lining!

    ReplyDelete
  43. Thank you so much Sara! Both for all the lovely words and commenting :) I was wondering if I screwed all my comments up and if I'd ever see one again... but yours came up perfectly!! Huzzah!

    ReplyDelete
  44. Wow! I'm so impressed and inspired. Your coat is beautifully constructed and the design elements you added are perfection. Thanks for sharing your muslin slog-a-thon (so worth it!) and the finishing details with us. You are my sewing hero.

    ReplyDelete