I need jeans. I own one RTW pair and they are threatening to rip a hole in that exact spot where the top of the thighs touch when I walk (you know what I mean, my thick thighed friends.) I was generally pretty happy with my last version of this pattern (My Image 1253 from the Autumn/Winter 2012/13 issue) that I thought I'd give it a whirl again with a couple alterations in hopes for a better fit.
I used a medium weight cotton denim with 2% spandex. I made the same size this time, 42 then graded to a 46 for the thighs and bum. My last version dipped lower in back on the waist (due to a fuller rear end) and had a fair amount of wrinkling on the back legs. I am happy to say the waistline is now even from front to back but there's some wrinkling still on the back leg.
I am sure that with very close fitting pants like this there is bound to be some wrinkling, but I know I can do better yet. For this pair I followed the advice from my book Singer's Sewing Pants That Fit for a 'protruding back seat' and lengthening the back crotch to make room for fuller thighs and rear. Don't be fooled by the dated look of this book, it's a clear and easy to follow compendium of advice. I paid $4 for mine a couple months back and it's a nice addition to my sewing library. Here is a great example of on Threads Magazine's website for pants alterations. Colette also has a pants fitting cheat sheet that's quite helpful.
|I only lengthened the back for a full derriere|
|How I lengthened the back crotch|
My absolute favorite part of these pants has to be the pleated panels on front. They come together so nicely and help flatter a fuller leg.
Overall I think this is another positive learning experience in my pants sewing odyssey. I'm not sure what pants pattern I will work on next... to shake things up maybe a simple one with a leg that has more ease. I know I also need more basic, casual t-shirts (I had to dig and dig through my closet to eventually find one... this striped version of Dixie DIY's Hot Cocoa Sweater. It's seen better days and has been washed and worn many times!)
I'm loving Sally's Style Arc Ivy t-shirt for an everyday, casual top. I've been wanting to try Style Arc patterns. I'm a big fan of Anne's blog, Sewing Engineer-- she does some beautiful work with Style Arc patterns and has gotten me hooked on reading her reviews of them. I tried to order something from then yesterday but there was some sort of error on the site, I'll try again. I might download Grainline's Hemlock Tee Pattern, it's a freebie that's been floating around on the sewing blogosphere.
And P.S. Here is my first incarnation of this pattern. I made the other view as a pair of running tights for cooler weather.