Tuesday, August 27, 2013

PANTS! My Image Magazine Seamed Trousers


I'm on a pants sewing odyssey-- it's my "Season of Sewing Pants That Fit".  I'm easing my way into eventually constructing the perfect fitting pair of pants.  Like almost every gal, I have fitting issues with ready-to-wear pants. And like many seamstresses, of course I also have issues with sewing up a proper fitting pair of pants.  My features are a smaller waist with fuller thighs and rear end-- absolutely nothing out of the ordinary but a figure that is apparently completely all wrong for off the rack garments.  Step one in my pants sewing odyssey was to sew up some stretchy knit activewear pants-- knits with spandex are pretty forgiving in the construction process-- that was a good start!  I've used the same pattern here, View A of My Image M1253 from their Autumn/Winter 2012/2013 issue.  They have such interesting seaming and detail on the front leg.


The material is a cotton/poly/spandex blend, an easy-care sort of medium to heavy weight stretch denim in a greenish blue.  The pattern is labeled as "trousers" but they have an elastic waistband.  I do not want to call these jeggings (it's not 2009, nor am I 13 years old)... maybe I'm willing to say skinny jeans... maybe.  


I made size 42 and graded out to a 46 in the hips and bum.  This worked out well for this heavier material where I want some ease (my running leggings from this pattern had to be sized down quite a bit for a snug fit.)  I love the pleated seams on the front leg!  They are so perfectly drafted and it all pieced together exactly right.  I also like those knee patches, too.  The back of the legs are plain and quite boring.  I must admit I made one small mistake, but it's not a real problem. 


If you look at the image on the left (from My Image) you'll see that the pleats are folded and sewn downward.  Look close at my version on the right and you'll see I folded my pleats upward.  I had ironed and sewed one whole panel and flipped it over and realized my error, but I think it's nothing to worry about. 


These pants are meant to have the waistline covered by a top.  It has an elastic waistband, not my usual first choice for everyday pants but a nice way to ease into working on fitting and sewing pants.  I didn't use My Image's suggested technique for attaching the elastic where you insert it into a pre-sewn tube of fabric.  I attached my waistband fabric to the pants, quartered off and lined up my elastic on the inside top raw edge, serged it on, flipped the fabric over to encase the elastic, then top-stitched.  You can see this technique here on my last pair of these pants.  The rise on these are a bit long, I could have shortened them a bit in front.  There is some gaping.


There is a fair amount of wrinkling on the back leg and around the knee.  In a RTW pair of pants this would be acceptable if I were shopping but I want to work on ridding my pants of these sort of wrinkles.  I really would like to take Pattern Drafting II with Annette Hickman at G Street Fabrics.  I took the first class with her about  three years ago and learned so much, she is a great instructor and I know she'd point me in the right direction.

And now I must give props to my assistant... my two year old son.  He chose my fabric and has officially approved of these pants!


**The plaid top is a handmade one from a Cynthia Rowley pattern I sewed up last winter.  It is Simplicity 2215 and you can read my original blog post about it here.**

8 comments:

  1. These pants look super comfy! They seem like a good step in your pants fitting odyssey. I've also been thinking about doing some no-waistband pants next so I can figure out some things about fitting. I can't imagine you could get rid of wrinkles on pants this tight, but what do i know? pants are a mystery to me! However, I think these look great and will be really nice for wearing with longer tops.

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  2. Thanks, Megan! I do expect some wrinkleage in close fitting pants but the leg shape can be a better for my legs. The legs of the pattern are very straight and my legs aren't perfectly straight. But I am over the moon with these as I have had the worst time with pants and I want to get over that. These are totally wearable! I want to see you make pants too! Bring em on!

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  3. Great pants, I really love the side details, so interesting! Good on you for trying out pants, I am much too nervous to try.

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  4. These are so cute! I'm liking your method of "easing into pants." I'm pretty scared of them, but I think I MAY try a cute pair from a Burda Magazine in something really stretchy to start...


    I love the pleats on these: such a cute detail! You did a really awesome job!

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  5. Thanks, Zoe! It's been a long time coming and I just need to start making my own pants. SO annoyed with buying them when they never fit.

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  6. Thanks! I've made pants before but they just weren't right. I made the Sewaholic Thurlow pants but am not happy with the pattern and results for several reasons. I've drafted my own pants sloper before and it was such a poor fit. I've made a few pairs from the Big 4 pattern companies but none worked out. The actual sewing process is easy enough... it's the fitting that bugs the b'jeezus outta be!

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  7. I love the look of the Thurlow pants, but I don't think the cut will be right for me. I'm not exactly pear shaped, and am not all that blessed in the derriere department...I do love skinny pants (like these) and wide-legged ones (have you seen Named pattern's pants? IN LOVE) but I have such fitting issues with the RTW ones, I'm imagining fitting my own will be a nightmare as well. One of these days, I'm going to get some of these my Image magazines, you always find such cute things!

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  8. I saw Named's new line of patterns the other day... I would really like to try one of them! I like the lines on the jeans! And the wide leg pants are really cute! My Image is is one of my favorites... I do confess there are some patterns that aren't my cup of tea, but it's my favorite pattern magazine right now (that is english translated.)

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