I absolutely ADORE Ohhh Lulu patterns! This Canadian independent lingerie pattern designer just released a bunch more patterns and I almost passed out upon seeing how adorable they all are. She does such a wonderful job with her visual marketing & imagery and her use of pretty feminine fabrics is eye candy for me. I had to try at least one pattern immediately. I just whipped up Grace Hipster Panties #1302 this afternoon from a PDF file pattern. I chose this pattern because it uses a combination of woven and knits. Plus the leg openings don't use any elastic. So minimal materials used! Serger and regular sewing machine instructions are included.
I consider this pair a wearable muslin. I used a polka dot quilting cotton (gold polka dots on white), simple white organic cotton jersey and some neon yellow ruffle elastic. I had to tweak them a little to fit my large bum. The XL fits a 40-42" (101-106cm) hip, which is about an American size 12. I graded it up a smidge to accommodate my full rear. This was not a difficult task at all as there are only four pattern pieces (only three to grade.) If you are a plus sized figure you will easily be able to grade up (it's too bad she doesn't go up past 10/12 in her sizing already.) The waist is a little larger then I need but I can alter that quickly next go round. I chopped off about an 1 1/2" (3.8cm) on the front leg opening making them a higher cut... I generally prefer a higher cut on my front leg. The bum coverage is quite good, too.
The front of the crotch lining isn't concealed, rather just serged. I may fold it under next time to conceal the raw edge. At first I wasn't sure about the lack of leg elastic, but it works out since the seam is serged giving it a flexible, stretchy seam. The instructions do suggest to a twin needle finish on top of the leg seams but I was too lazy to thread my machine for that... so I just made a narrow zig zag stitch that matches the stitch on the elastic waist. One thing I'd like to see is better fabric suggestions. There is no specific recommendation on what sort of stretch fabric to use. There is a big difference in stretchability with this t-shirt weight 100% cotton jersey with maybe 15% stretch and a bamboo rayon with 80% 4-way stretch. You will have to make a muslin for each or just estimate and alter your size for each fabric.
I will be making more of these! They are comfy and there are so many ways to embellish these with sweet bows, ruffles and sassy prints. I REALLY want every single one of Ohh Lulu's patterns. Has anyone else made her new stuff yet?